In the movie
Sideways, Miles explains to Maya the reason for his passion for pinot noir: "Pinot is a hard grape to grow. As you know, it's thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early. Pinot needs constant care and attention and in fact can only grow in specific little tucked-away corners of the world."
One of these "tucked-away corners" just happens to be the Santa Rita Hills, which is located in the northwestern corner of Santa Barbara County and is slowly becoming known as one of the premiere regions for California pinot noir.
In 1996, Ron Melville, a successful financier and member of the Pacific Stock Exchange, decided he would marry his love for gardening and wine and turn his dream of owning his own vineyard into a reality. After scouting land up and down the coast of California, he settled upon an 82 acre plot of land just outside the tiny town of Lompoc.
Today, Melville Vineyards and Winery produces some the best pinot noir coming out the Central Coast. Following legendary pioneers such as Richard Sanford of Sanford Winery (and now Alma Rosa) and Jim Clendenon of Au Bon Climat, Melville produces world-class pinot noir through the meticulous management of his own vineyard. Rather than buy grapes from someone else, as is the winemaking trend nowadays, every bottle of wine produced by Melville comes from his own estate, one that is personally managed by Ron himself and his two sons. The result is a beautiful expression of the land and the people who so lovingly care for it, something the French call
terroir.
On Saturday, Ron Melville hosted a retrospective of his wines. We tasted through his line-up of pinot noir (and chardonnay) from the 2000 vintage through to 2006, including barrel samples of his single-lots pinots. Pinot noir may be a hard grape to grow, but his wines are very easy to drink.
Cheers!

MELVILLE WINE DINNER - Antonello Ristorante - Costa Mesa, CA (10/6/2007)Introduction
Focaccia di Recca - Thin Focaccia Bread filled with Mozzarella and Cresceza cheeses
Miniature Caprese - Toasted bread topped with Sliced Tomato, Bufula Mozzarella, little Oregano, Salt and Extra Virgin Olive Oil
- 2006 Melville Viognier Estate Verna's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
A vibrant little wine and one of the better viogniers I have had from the SRH. Delicate notes of peaches and apricots with shadings of lime and pine. Lively, balanced, and very refreshing. I even went back for seconds. (91 pts.)
SRH Pinot Noir Vertical
Salmon alla Erbe - Fresh Salmon grilled with Garlic, Rosemary, Sage, Parsley, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and touch of Lemon
- 2000 Melville Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
Given the price point of this wine, I'm more than a little surprised by how well it aged. Then again, it did come straight from the winery. Initial nose of cooked cherries, decaying logs, and touch of animal; with time in the glass, the nose became much less severe and a bit more floral. On the palate, tart cherries, cranberries, and chalky minerals. The acidity supports the fruit nicely. (87 pts.)
- 2001 Melville Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
This nose on this wine makes me think of a cherry pie being baked in log cabin in the middle of the forest. It has all of those elements and more. Bucolic aromas of cherry pie, tree bark, and pine needles followed by ripe cherries, raspberry puree, earth, and truffles on the palate. The nose is not as compelling as the 2003, but the longer finish makes this a better wine in my opinion. My WOTF. 88-89 points. (88 pts.)
- 2003 Melville Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
I loved the nose on this pinot as it had much more dark fruit characteristics (dark cherries, plum, and boysenberries) than the 2000 and 2001. On the palate, however, the wine seemed a bit thin, with a touch of green notes coming through on the very short and slightly watery finish. (87 pts.)
- 2006 Melville Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
This wine came across as too young to be drunk. For some reason, the nose seemed very muted and the jam and earth flavors did not seem to be well knit together. I was going to reserve judgment about this wine, but since it has already been released, I feel compelled to assign it a score. 85-86 points. (85 pts.)
Terraces Pinot Noir Vertical
Spezzatino - Franco's mother in law recipe: Vegetable, Potato, Tomato Beef Stew
- 2002 Melville Pinot Noir Terraces - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
I gave this wine 88 points back in May and I'm pleased to see it is holding up well. Mature aromas of cooked cherries, balsamic vinegar, Asian spice, and dried herbs followed by sour cherries and crushed rocks on the palate. A good wine that is drinking well right now. 88-89 points. (88 pts.)
- 2003 Melville Pinot Noir Terraces - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
Dense aromas of wet soil, minerals, rose petals, and cinnamon spice followed by a tight palate of dark cherries, blackberries, dried herbs and mineral. Complex, but needs decanting or more time in the bottle. (88 pts.)
- 2004 Melville Pinot Noir Terraces - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
It is becoming more and more apparent to me that the Terraces need time. The 50% stem inclusion is still quite apparent here. Nose of cooked cherries, game, and asparagus. On the palate, ripe cherries, blueberries, tobacco leaf and stem. A powerful and complex pinot, but a bit too vegetal for me. 86-87 points. (87 pts.)
- 2005 Melville Pinot Noir Terraces - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
A Ron Melville was proud to announce at our table that this is a man's pinot. Indeed, many of the wines in this flight were quite masculine in character and often had notes of dried herbs and/or tobacco leaf. This one seemed to have both. Deep aromas of dark cherries, dried cranberries, and wet soil followed by white pepper, tobacco leaf, dried herbs and earth on the palate. My WOTF. (89 pts.)
- 2006 Melville Pinot Noir Terraces - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
As a barrel sample, it still comes across as very primary and raw. Grapey and chewy, with notes of dried cherries, plum, blackberries, and black pepper. No doubt, the wine will be very much in the same bloodline as the previous Terraces. Interesting to taste, hard to score.
Carrie's Pinot Noir Vertical
Taglioline alla Bolognese - Homemade thin pasta prepared in a veal (ragu) sauce
- 2001 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
A terrific pinot! Rich aromas of dark cherries, blueberries, and brown spices followed by an opulent palate of ripe cherries, plum, black raspberries, earth, and truffles. Sexy and delicious. 92-93 points. My #2 WOTN. (92 pts.)
- 2002 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
This pinot came across as one of the more tannic in the flight with a strong black tea and tree bark component. With more time in the glass, the tannins started to subside and the wine reveals ripe black cherries, plum, and boysenberries. (91 pts.)
- 2003 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
Much like the 2003 Estate pinot, while I really enjoyed the dark fruit aromas, this wine came across a bit thinner on the palate, at least compared to the other wines in this flight. That said, I think still preferred this wine to any of the Terraces. Notes of cherries, cranberries, a touch of apple peel. 89-90 points. (90 pts.)
- 2004 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
This wine is the real deal and shows what the SRH can offer in terms of pinot noir. Opulent and rich, with notes of dark cherry, blueberries, boysenberries, cinnamon spice, and dark chocolate truffles. Full in the mouth with a long long finish. My WOTF and WOTN. 93-94 points. (93 pts.)
- 2005 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
Perhaps the most elegant pinot in this flight with notes of red cherries, red plum, black raspberries, and black tea. Delicious. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)
- 2006 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
Like the 2006 Terraces, this barrel sample is still quite raw and primary. Grapey and hollow in the midpalate, but I have no doubt that Carrie will develop some curves in the coming months.
Chardonnay: Inox and SRH
Polpette di Garnchio - Homemade crab cake topped with a fresh mango sauce
Tonna Tartar - Ahi Tuna finely chopped seasoned with a touch of Mustard, Shallots, Lemon and topped with Micro Arugola
- 2001 Melville Chardonnay Clone 76 Inox Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
A steely chardonnay with intriguing notes of hay, cheese rind, smoke, honeydew melon, and lemon. Very nice acidity. An intersting wine; just not my cup of tea. 86-87 points. (86 pts.)
- 2001 Melville Chardonnay Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
A really lovely chardonnay with mature notes of honey, caramel, melon, and lemon curd. Lime acidity on the finish lifts the rounder notes in this wine. Very nice and real treat. My WOTF. (91 pts.)
- 2003 Melville Chardonnay Clone 76 Inox Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
Reminds me more of a sauvignon blanc than a chardonnay. Nose of gooseberry (cat pee?) and lime followed by hay and flint flavors. My least favorite wine of the evening. 84-85 points. (84 pts.)
- 2003 Melville Chardonnay Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
Notes of honeydew melon, citrus rind, and margarita mix. Round and elegant on the palate, with a nice smokey note on the finish. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)
- 2006 Melville Chardonnay Clone 76 Inox Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
I was quite impressed with this bottle. Notes of lychee, banana peel, and citrus rind. Clean and vibrant and joy to drink. Given my impressions of the other older Inox chards, I think I prefer them on the young side. 89-90 points. (89 pts.)
Pinot Noir: High Density and Clone 115 Indigene
Filetto di Cervo - Venison Loin topped with a wine must and truffle sauce
- 2001 Melville Pinot Noir High Density - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
The slightly stemmy aromas in this wine are offset by a good dose of hard spices. On the palate, bright red cherries, black tea, and asparagus flavors meld in a way that is not although unpleasant. (87 pts.)
- 2001 Melville Pinot Noir Clone 115 Indigene - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
A very interesting and aromatic mix of black cherries, raspberries, caramel, toffee and a pinch of white pepper. Intriguing and complex with very nice acidity. 90-91 points and my WOTF. (91 pts.)
- 2003 Melville Pinot Noir High Density - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
Notes of black cherry, plum, and strawberries. Hard spices on the finish add interest. (89 pts.)
- 2003 Melville Pinot Noir Clone 115 Indigene - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
I find it very interesting that wild yeasts can impart a comparable level of complexity as a blend of 14 different clones, which what is found in their High Density pinots. Notes of black cherry, boysenberry, spice cake, and toffee are supported by zesty acidity. (90 pts.)
- 2005 Melville Pinot Noir High Density - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
I am impressed by the elegance of this pinot, which I attribute in part to the very even 2005 growing season. Graceful notes of red cherries, cranberries, and strawberries. Brown spices on the finish add compexity and depth. (90 pts.)
- 2005 Melville Pinot Noir Clone 115 Indigene - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
A very good wine, but perhaps my least favorite of the 115 Indigenes. Notes of plum, dark cherries, caramel, and black tea. Needs some time to smooth out the tannins. The finish is marred by a searing heat, which tips the scales at 15.5% alcohol. (88 pts.)
Dolce
Tartufo - Chocolate Truffle, White Chocolate truffle, Mixed Berries and Nuts and Strawberry dipped in Chocolate

Phlin and Ron Melville