phlin

Just a little dinner with friends. :)

CLASSIC BORDEAUX AND CALIFORNIA CABS - Casa Dietz - Santa Ana, CA (4/11/2009)

Champagne

• 1990 Deutz Champagne Cuvée William Deutz - France, Champagne
  My impressions of this wine differed from Cris, but then again, I was drinking this out of a Zalto stem, which IMO tends to make Champagne taste more youthful and vibrant. Notes of nougat, baked green apples, crushed shells, and, with air, toffee and bruléed sugar. Precise and focused on the palate, with a lively acidity, and a long rich chalk-laden finish. Very enjoyable. (93 pts.)


• 1999 Claude Carré et Fils Champagne Cuvée Passion - France, Champagne
  The first time I tasted this wine was in November of 2008. I gave it 91 points then and thought that it was surprisingly good for the price. Tasting it again over the weekend, I realize that that first bottle was not a fluke. This is a terrific wine for the price. Chalky on the palate with a nervy acidity, this wine exhibits notes of green and golden apples, starfruit, and a touch of cucumber and minerals on the finish. A very distinctive wine. (91 pts.)

Chardonnay

• 1990 Stony Hill Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley
  The nose and palate seemed very cloaked at first. Then the TCA took over. NR (flawed)


• 1993 Talley Vineyards Chardonnay Estate Arroyo Grande Valley - USA, California, Central Coast, Arroyo Grande Valley
  This wine was holding up rather well considering its age. It's not often that one drinks (and enjoys) a 26 year old Chardonnay. Notes of preserved lemons, pastry cream, chopped almonds, and chalk. Smooth and delicate on the palate with a muted acidity. A delight to taste. (90 pts.)


• 2006 Rhys Chardonnay Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
  The fact that this wine was decanted for 8 hours is probably a testament to its quality and potential longevity. Rugged notes of lemon peel, smoke, grilled limes, and crushed shells. Tangy acidity with a long steely finish. (88 pts.)

Pre-dinner

• 1967 Château Léoville Barton - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
  This wine was clearly past its prime, but that is not to say it had completely lost its merits. Fading notes of mushrooms, white cherries, tobacco, and slate. A short, tart, and gasping finish. (85 pts.)


• 1987 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley
  This gorgeous wine is a classic expression of California Cabernet. It has old Hollywood written all over it. Glamourous notes of black cherries, crushed raspberries, cassis, wet soil, licorice, and saddle leather. Rich, structured, and complex. A brilliant wine and easily my WOTN. (95 pts.)


• 1993 Etude Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
  A little hard to believe that this was the youngest Cab-based wine at the table. Ripe notes of sour cherries, red plums, red currants, tobacco, and dried herbs. With air, the wine picks up some dark chocolate. Fleshy on the plate with a long finish. Fun to drink. (91 pts.)

1982 Bordeaux

• 1982 Château Léoville Barton - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
  This wine was corked, unfortunately, but underneath the TCA lurked powerful notes of cassis, graphite, and cedar. Major bummer! NR (flawed)


• 1982 Château Léoville Las Cases - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
  This epic and legendary wine was a delight to drink. That said, between Parker's 100 points and Suckling's 95, I think the bar of expectations was set a little too high. Don't get me wrong; this was a joy to drink, but I do not think it is worth the tariff, nor do I think it is going to get any better with time. Notes of violets, currants, crushed raspberries, cedar, sweet tobacco, graphite and bitter chocolate. Broad and expansive on the palate with a slightly tart finish. 93-94 points. (93 pts.)

1991 Ridge

• 1991 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
  Notes of cassis, cigar box, anise, and dried herbs. Balanced and elegant and probably the most ready to drink of the three. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)


• 1991 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Jimsomare - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
  This wine had an Old World character to it; it could have easily been a ringer in a line-up of Bordeaux. Earthy notes of red fruits, cedar, wet soil, and graphite. Dense and tannic on the palate with a herbal finish. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)


• 1991 Ridge Monte Bello - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
  In contrast to the Jimsomare, this one came across as more New World in character. Ripe notes of mint, black fruits, chocolate, leather, graphite and wet loamy soil. Slightly pruney on the palate. Clearly the richest of the three Ridges and in definite need of more time (or a healthy decant). 92-93 points. (92 pts.)

Post-dinner

• 1973 Mayacamas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
  Earthy and gamey with notes of candy bars, red currants, and leather. Still chugging along with no signs of fading. (88 pts.)


• 1974 Quinta do Noval Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Excellent. Notes of candied pecans, maraschino cherries, and pie crust. What's not to like about that? (93 pts.)

I used to have a roommate who would tease me about my passion for wine. Whenever I started to talk about wine, she would roll her eyes and cry out, "You're such a wine snob!" Of course, I always suspected that her response was more a function of her insecurity and ignorance about wine, a defensive gesture that revealed her class consciousness and provincialist fears, but I always bristled at her accusation. As someone who has her doctorate in chemistry, is an avid cross-country runner, and who considers herself a connoisseur of microbrews, she of all people should have understood and appreciated my geeky interest in wine. It always struck me as odd that she could hold people to a higher standard in discussions about science, the mechanics of sports training, and the aesthetics of beer, but the second someone would attempt to move beyond Two Buck Chuck (her brand of choice), she would brand them as a wine snob.

Well if the desire to seek something better than Charles Shaw makes me a wine snob, then so be it. Life is too short to drink bad wine. In that spirit, allow me to toast her with a celebratory tasting note, the 1996 Krug, probably the finest Champagne I have tasted to date. It is a Grail wine, one that if provided the means, I would buy in bulk and without remorse. So here's to the wine snobs, or in this case, the vintelligentsia. Cheers!

• 1996 Krug Champagne Brut - France, Champagne
  Tasted at K&L's annual Champagne event. This wine is simply unreal. Probably the best champagne I have had to date. Powerful and intense notes of pear, green apples, ginger, yeast, and baking spices. Finishes with a refined minerality. Vibrant yet ethereal, it just dances upon the palate! 97+ points. (97 pts.)

FALLTACULAR 2009 - Casa Murray - San Juan Capistrano, CA (1/24/2009)

For California Pinot Noir, 2007 looks to be a strong year. Exhibiting some of the opulent ripeness of 2004 and the refined elegance of 2005, 2007 should be a welcome post-partisan response to lovers of all things Pinot. It was a vintage that allowed winemakers to make the kind of Pinot that they wanted and not just have to deal with the vintage they were dealt, which was the case (for many) in the very warm 2004 and the very soggy 2006.

On January 24, 2009, I got a brief glimpse of some 2007 Pinots, as well as a smattering of 2004s, 2005s and 2006s. The standout producers, to my mind, are August West and Clos Pepe. The August West Rosella’s was not only my WOTD, but also many others; the two bottles at the tasting were quickly drained amongst a huddled mass of oohs and ahhs. The Clos Pepe Estate proved that one does not have to be in your face in order to be noticed; this wine was all about power and grace. I was also very impressed with Brian Loring’s offerings this year, and I think this latest batch of Pinot may be his best yet.

Some disappointments this year included Melville and, to a lesser extent, Siduri. While I am typically a huge fan of Melville Pinots, I wonder about their stylistic choices. For example, while the estate bottling sees very little oak, their small lot bottlings see a lot of whole-cluster inclusion. The result is a very candied expression of Pinot in the estate and a stemmy and earthy red Burg wannabe in the small lots. As for Siduri, I am not quite sure what to make of them yet. I was expecting to be blown away by their Pisoni and Rosella’s Pinots, but upon tasting them, I found them just to be very good. Both wines seemed very restrained to me, so perhaps they are still in the throes of bottle shock. Only time will tell.

Of course, the final verdict on 2007 remains to be seen. This was just a sneak preview. But based upon what I have already tasted, this is definitely a performance I want to watch.

• N.V. Yann Alexandre Champagne Grande Réserve Courmas - France, Champagne
  This Champagne tasted a bit older than it perhaps is. In place of green apples and yeast are baked apples and bread crust, with crushed minerals and lemon curd rounding out the palate. A nice sparkler from a relatively unknown producer (at least to me). 89-90 points. (89 pts.)


• 2005 Ampelos Pinot Noir Ampelos Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills - Sta. Rita Hills
  What happens when you bring a 2005 to a 2007 battle? Well, it's a little like bringing a shotgun to a pistol duel. In this case, I was the one who was blown away. Vibrant and pure notes of Bing cherries, ripe strawberries, and crushed minerals -- just delicious. My notes say, "Straight up good!" 90-91 points. (90 pts.)


• 2007 Armonie Cellars Pinot Noir Split Rock Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  A very ripe expression of this sight. Notes of raisins, black plums, black cherries, and hard spices. Large scaled and quite intense on the palate. (87 pts.)


• 2007 August West Pinot Noir Graham Family Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Compared to the Rosella's, this Pinot came across as less approachable and more aggressive on the palate. Notes of black cherries, black raspberries, and wet soil. Dense and compact with a slightly gravelly finish. Has promise, but needs more time at this point. (90 pts.)


• 2007 August West Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  This was one of the wines I was most interested in tasting, and I was not disappointed! Notes of strawberry preserves, black cherries, raspberry coulee, and hard spices. Rich, deep, and decadent on the palate. This wine is like a smart and sexy brunette -- quite the keeper! My WOTD. (93 pts.)


• 2006 Black Kite Pinot Noir Kite's Rest - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
  Fruity and easy to drink with cheerful notes of bright cherries, watermelon, and shadings of sous bois. Not terribly complex, but I did very much like the mouthfeel, which I found rather supple and light. 88-89 points. (88 pts.)


• 2006 Black Kite Pinot Noir Stony Terrace - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
  I liked this much better than when I tasted it at Pinot Days. Complex notes of black cherries, raspberries, sandlewood, leather, and crushed minerals. A polished wine that is very lithe and elegant on the palate. (91 pts.)


• 2007 Clos Pepe Estate Pinot Noir - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills - Sta. Rita Hills
  This wine is, to my mind, the benchmark for SRH Pinot Noir. Elegant notes of black cherries, pomegranates, cinnamon, citrus rind, and crushed minerals. Refined and balanced. (92 pts.)


• 2005 Joseph Swan Vineyards Pinot Noir Saralee's Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Another 2005 showstealer. This wine is in a very good place right now. Bright notes of red cherries, strawberries, and raspberries. Forest floor lingers on the finish. Lightweight and restrained on the palate. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)


• 2007 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  My notes say, "How Pinot Noir should taste." Pure and vibrant notes of black cherries, fresh raspberries, baking spices, and just a hint of earth. (91 pts.)


• 2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Aubaine Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Arroyo Grande Valley
  Ripe and concentrated with a broad palate of black cherries, boysenberries, red licorice. Excellent! (91 pts.)


• 2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Durell Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  This wine came across as the "sweetest" of the Loring line-up I tasted today. Notes of cherry pie filling, boysenberries, and vanillin oak. Creamy and lithe on the palate, but seems to need just a touch more acid. (88 pts.)


• 2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  Notes of black cherries and orange peel. Pure and focused with a bright texture and long finish. 89-90 points. (89 pts.)


• 2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Graham Family Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Green Valley
  Plush notes of dark cherries, black plums, and black raspberries. Soft on the palate with a nice lingering finish. (90 pts.)


• 2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  I have always like the Rosella's from Brian, and this wine is no exception. Bright notes of sour cherries, crushed raspberries, plum skin, citrus peel, and baking spices. Zesty on the palate with a nice long clean finish. Very refreshing! 91-92 points. (91 pts.)


• 2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Russell Family Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
  Ripe and full on the palate with notes of black cherries, boysenberries, and a touch of candied orange peel. Very easy to drink. 88-89 points. (88 pts.)


• 2007 Melville Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills - Sta. Rita Hills
  I'm not exactly sure what to think of this wine, as I am usually a fan of Melville Pinots. This one, however, came across as very candied, very primary, almost as if it saw barely any oak at all. A quick look at their website confirms my impressions, as it says that this wine saw only 16% new French oak. In any case, this cheerful little fruit punch of a wine came across very extroverted, yet rather simple, with youthful cherry fruit and sea shell notes. 86-87 points. (86 pts.)


• 2004 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills - Sta. Rita Hills
  Although the nose was opulent and rich with notes of black raspberries and chocolate-covered cherries, the palate seemed overdone, slightly coarse, and more herbal than I remembered a year ago. LB said it tasted a little like salsa. I'm not exactly sure if this wine was flawed, but something did not seem entirely right with this wine. The nose is a winner, but the palate seemed a little off. The best of two bottles. 86-87 points. (86 pts.)


• 2007 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills - Sta. Rita Hills
  I think this wine holds a lot of promise, as I have always really enjoyed the Carrie's, but right now the 65% whole cluster notes are dominating the wine. With swirling, one is able to coax out notes of Bing cherry, Asian pickled plums, wet soil, and hard spices. Not at opulent as previous years, this wine conveys a certain sense of old world gravitas that is reminscent of Burgundy. 89-90 points. (89 pts.)


• 2007 P2 Wine Pinot Noir Momtazi Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, McMinnville
  I remain to be convinced fully of Oregon's greatness, but I did very much like this wine. Complex and savory notes of bacon, baking spices, dark cherries, and plums. Nice acidity and a mineral-laced finish. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)


• 2007 Seawind Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  Fruit foward notes of tart cherries and raspberry coulee. Full on the palate with a citrus peel finish. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)


• 2007 Seawind Pinot Noir Split Rock Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Notes of sweet cherries, strawberries, red plums, and pomegranate. Fruit forward, soft on the palate, and easy to drink. (89 pts.)


• 2007 Siduri Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Opens with some reductive aromas, but after some swirling I was able to coax out notes of sweet cherry pie filling, new leather, and sea shells. A really nice, if somewhat different, expression of the site compared to Keefer Ranch. 88-89 points. (88 pts.)


• 2007 Siduri Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  I am a huge fan of Pisoni fruit but realize that it does not always show its potential at such a young stage. Rich and syrupy with notes of black cherries, red plums, Asian pickled plums, and oak spice. Needs much more time in the bottle. (89 pts.)


• 2007 Siduri Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  I found this wine a little curious as I was not expecting it to be so restrained and delicate. Earthy notes of sweet tobacco, cranberries, red cherries, clay and hard spices. (88 pts.)


• 2007 Sojourn Pinot Noir Demuth Vineyard Anderson Valley - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
  This wine is not due to be released until the fall of 2009, so perhaps it is still a work in progress. But as it is, it came across a bit rough. Whole cluster notes dominate the nose, with earth, dried cherries, and tree bark on the palate. If New World Pinot is your thing, then this is probably not your wine. On the other hand, red Burgundy lovers should rejoice! (85 pts.)


• 2007 Terra Novus Pinot Noir Split Rock Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  This bottle threw off significant reduction, even after giving it the Mollydooker shake. Notes of black cherry, plums, smoke, and tar. Tasted closer to my first bottle than my most recent one. 88-89 points. (88 pts.)


• 2004 Vergari Pinot Noir DuNah Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Earthy and smokey notes of cooked cherry reduction, tanned leather, and red clay. I can see this wine going really well with food. (87 pts.)


• 2005 Vergari Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  This wine showed better than when I tasted it at Family Winemakers a year ago. Sauvage notes of red cherries, strawberries, earth, and red clay. Soft on the palate. (88 pts.)


• 2006 Vergari Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  I think wine is pretty typical of the 2006 vintage for the region. A beam of bright cherry and blueberry fruit on the attack, but rather underdeveloped on midpalate and finish. (86 pts.)

It was a friend's birthday, so we decided to break out some of the gems from our cellars. With the exception of the mediocre 1970 Cos d'Estournel, all the wine drank rather well. The highlight, of course, was the 1982 Cheval Blanc. Not as legendary as the 1961 (which Miles unceremonious downed with a burger in the movie Sideways), but a pretty good wine notwithstanding.

• 2006 Weingut Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner Sandgrube - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
  This was probably one of the fruitiest Grüners I have ever had. Ripe yet delicate mineral-laced notes of stone fruits, orange blossoms, and citrus rind, with just a whisper of spearmint. Fresh and vibrant and an excellent way to begin the evening. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)


• 2004 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  This wine seemed to improve and become more delicate and nuanced the longer it sat in my glass. Rich notes of creme brulée and lemon custard evolved into a silky melange of tropical fruits and hard spices. Good supporting acidity nicely balanced out the ripe palate. A delicious and remarkable wine. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)


• 2006 Sine Qua Non Autrement Dit - USA, California
  This bottle was, for some reason, not as good as the one I had before, which is not to say I did not like it. I did, very much so. It just did not elicit the euphoria that the previous bottle did. Fruity notes of watermelon Jolly Ranchers, strawberries, and citrus rind. Fresh on the palate, but a bit heavier than I remember, and showing some heat. (89 pts.)


• 1970 Gros Frere et Sœur Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
  We all thought this wine would be DOA, but au contraire mon gros frere, it was still very much alive and drinking quite beautifully. A veritable chameleon in the glass, the aromas kept changing every time I brought the glass to my nose. First sour cherries, then papaya, then raspberries, then red clay, then lemon rind, then caramel -- it was intoxicating. The palate, on the other hand, was a bit simple and one-dimensional, but I thought the nose more than made up for it. A lovely wine! (92 pts.)


• 1970 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
  Probably my least favorite wine of the evening. Notes of pleather, caramel, chimney ash, and roasted red peppers. Faded fruit on the palate and finishing a bit sour, I think this wine is past its peak, if it ever had one. 85-86 points. (85 pts.)


• 1979 Château Léoville Barton - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
  Mature aromas of chimney ash, top soil, dried currants, and autumn leaves. Supple on the palate, with floral-inflected notes of sour cherries and saddle leather. A very nice wine. (89 pts.)


• 1982 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
  This wine reeks of class and sophistication. Plush aromas of cigar tobacco, top soil, red clay, and cherries, which evolved as the evening wore on into cedar, pink grapefruit, aged leather and spiced apple. Grandiose and majestic but at the same time graceful and light, this wine performed grand jetés across my palate. An outstanding wine! 94-95 points. (95 pts.)


• 2005 Château Smith Haut Lafitte - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
  Decanted 3 1/2 hours prior to serving and could have used more. Nonetheless, one can taste the potential of this wine. Notes of cassis, coffee, plum, and blackberries. Dense and extracted, but balanced. There is an understated power and energy to this wine that I find really appealing. (93 pts.)

If you have never heard of Kosta Browne, then chances are you know very little about California Pinot Noir. Now before you call me a snob, which you probably already think anyway, let me just say that Kosta Browne is to California Pinot what Ferrari is to Italian cars -- both are bold to the point of being audacious, opulent to the point of being flashy, and yet very, very sexy and desirable.

Fortunately, it is easier to procure Kosta Browne than it is a Ferrari. On this evening, Michael Browne came down to the OC to present his 2005 line-up. And what a line-up it was! Like a visit to the Playboy Mansion, each of the wines was a knockout, and after it was all done, the only thing that could salvage my tongue from this hedonistic and sybaritic tasting was some palate-cleansing Champagne. But I will reserve that part of the evening to another entry.

2005 KOSTA BROWNE WINE DINNER - Antonello Ristorante - Costa Mesa, CA (4/19/2008)

Hors d'oeuvres

Focaccia di Recco - Baked paper thin Focaccia sheets filled with imported Italian cheese

Spiedino di Mozzarella - Fresh red and yellow Cherry Tomatoes with fresh basil and pearl-sized Mozzarella on a bamboo skewer

Capesante alla Erbe - Seared Scallops served over olive oil and fresh herbs

• 2005 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  A graceful wine with alluring notes of ripe strawberries, raspberry jam, cocoa powder, and toffee. Balanced and drinking quite impressively right now. (91 pts.)


• 2006 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  A simple Rosé, with bright strawberry and watermelon fruit on the attack. The flavors seem a bit underdeveloped beyond the midpalate, however, and the finish is a bit austere. (85 pts.)


• 2007 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Pleasant notes strawberry mousse, strawberry jam, citrus rind. Rich and creamy yet zesty on the finish. An affable Rosé. (88 pts.)


• 2003 Kistler Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Carneros
  An excellent wine with laser-like intensity. Notes lemon curd, kumquat, roasted almonds, and crushed minerals. This is the Jackie Warner of Chardonnays. (90 pts.)


• 2004 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  A complex and layered Chardonnay. Aromas of unripe pineapples, nectarines, almond slivers, and hazelnuts are followed by a silky palate of ripe tropical fruits. This is a wine that leaves you wanting more. (91 pts.)


• 2005 Walter Hansel Winery Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Pungent earth and animal greet the nose on this one, but the palate reveals some very interesting, if restrained, notes of wet stones, white flowers, chalk, and lime. A very gaunt Chardonnay. (86 pts.)

First Course - Insalata di Pomodoro Rape e Burrata

Tomatoes and roasted Beets tossed together with extra virgin olive oil and oregano topped with fresh Burrata and drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar

• 2005 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  Notes of black cherries, black raspberries, strawberry jam, and vanilla cream. Lush on the palate with a long caressing finish. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)


• 2005 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  This wine shows itself to be a big more structured and, dare I say, more masculine than the Rosella's. Aromas of cola, black cherries, cocoa power, and orange liqueur are followed by black cherries, spice, sassafras, and minerals. Tingling acidity provides some lift on the finish. 89-90 points. (90 pts.)

Second Course - Carpaccio di Cinghiale Pepato e Affumicato

Thin slices of peppered and lightly smoked wild Boar drizzled with truffle infused olive oil topped with baby mixed salad

• 2005 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Brown sugar, pomegranate, and black cherries on the nose. On the palate, black raspberries, black cherries, and rhubarb. A touch of heat slightly mars the finish. (89 pts.)


• 2005 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Miron - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Only 90 cases produced and a one-off wine for KB. My notes say "decadent," "silky," and "lush." This wine is all that and more. Notes of black raspberries, cherry liqueur, milk chocolate, and brown spices. Interesting contrapuntal note of crushed minerals on the finish. A complex and layered Pinot that deserves to be slowly savored. Tied with the 4 Barrel as my #2 WOTN. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)

Third Course - Risotto al Funghi Porcini and Ravioli d’Anatra al Sugo di Coda di Bue

Italian Arborio Rice cooked with diced onions, shallots and thinly sliced Porcini Mushrooms topped with grated fresh parmesan cheese

Homemade Ravioli filled with smoked breast of duck and ox tail reduction

• 2005 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Aromas of sweet raspberries and cola are followed by notes of black cherries, ripe strawberries, wet soil, and sassafras. A touch of caramel on the finish. Surprisingly, this wine seemed to work a little better with food than on its own. (90 pts.)


• 2005 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  The wine showed the most red fruits of all the KBs we tasted that evening. Bright aromas of cranberry, pomegranate, and black cherries. On the palate, sweet raspberry puree, rhubarb, and crushed minerals. Silky mouthfeel is marred by a touch of heat on the finish. 90-91 points. (91 pts.)

Fourth Course - Salmone con Salsa di Zenzaro

Grilled filet of wild King Salmon topped with spicy ginger garlic sauce

• 2005 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Amber Ridge Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Notes of black raspberries, strawberry jam, and black cherries. I enjoyed this wine very much, but in the context of the other outstanding wines, it was not as memorable. This is the Jan Brady of the KB bunch.(90 pts.)


• 2005 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Koplen Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  This wine is an absolute knockout! Dramatic aromas of boysenberries, black cherries, and something like Black Forest cake. The palate struts voluptuous notes of black raspberries, black cherries, and with air some blueberries and plum. Sexy and seductive, this wine was a clear favorite and my #1 WOTN. 94-95 points. (94 pts.)

Fifth Course - Costolette d’Agnello al Rosmarino

Grilled New Zealand baby Lamb Chops, served with shallots, brandy, fresh rosemary sauce

• 2005 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Kanzler Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Dense aromas of back raspberries, black cherries, and hard spices followed by clean and pure cherry fruit on the palate with shadings of wet soil and sassafras. Creamy texture and a long silky finish. Michael Browne said he had a tough time with this wine, but it seems whatever wrinkles there were have been completely smoothed out. A seamless wine. (92 pts.)


• 2005 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir 4 Barrel - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Begins a little meaty on the nose with additional notes of reduced cherries, strawberry jam, and teriyaki sauce. With extended aeration, however, the wine blossoms with bold notes of raspberry puree, strawberry jam, black cherries, and spice. The palate mirrors the nose. The finish is long and rich. Tied with the Miron as my #2 WOTN. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)

Dolce - Tortino al Ciocolate

Rich warm flourless Chocolate Soufflé Cake filled with a warm chocolate sauce

• 2003 Sine Qua Non Chardonnay Mr. K The Noble Man - USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
  A really delicious dessert wine that was dense without being too heavy. Notes of honey, baking spices, candied pecans, and dried apricots followed by brown sugar, baked peaches, and marzipan on the palate. While delicate in the mouth, I do think it could have benefitted from a bit more acidity. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)


• 2006 Holdredge Pinot Gris Grace's Cuvée - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Notes of spiced pear, lychee, and guava marmalade. A bit cloying and in desperate need of more acidity. 87-88 points. (87 pts.)

I'm really looking forward to the weekend. Why? Two words: Kosta Browne.

Who is this man and why am I standing next to him?

In many parts of the world, 2005 was a banner year for wine. Even someone with a New World palate such as I found Bordeaux in 2005 rather irresistable. Beg, borrow, or steal: what ever you do, buy some 2005 Bordeaux! You won't regret it!

2005 BORDEAUX - Wine Exchange - Orange, CA (2/16/2008)

According to the organizers, all the 2005 red Bordeaux were opened the previous day and then double-decanted before the tasting. The old wines and the Sauternes were opened about 40 minutes prior.

Right Bank

• 2005 Château Rauzan Despagne - France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
  Aromas of smoked meats, crushed rocks, and cherries flambé. On the palate, dark cherries, minerals, smoke and earth. A bit light in the mouth and the finish fades rather quickly. In spite of its lack of depth, this is an easy wine to drink and enjoy. RP88-90, WS84. (87 pts.)


• 2005 Château Marjosse - France, Bordeaux, Entre-Deux-Mers
  Begins with a muted nose, but with heavy swirling I was able to coax out some faint herbal/vegetal (in a good way) aromas. On the palate, black cherry, cassis, and minerals. OK, but not the most interesting wine of the tasting. RP87-88, WS86. (85 pts.)


• 2005 Château Puygueraud - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Côtes de Francs
  Dusty yet feminine aromas of roses, geraniums, and wet earth. On the palate, tart cherries, black tea, and clay soil. Nice structure and balance. Flavorwise, I actually prefer the Rauzan Despagne, but the longer finish on this wine merits the slight edge. 87-88 points. RP88-90, WS92. (88 pts.)


• 2005 Château La Vieille Cure - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Fronsac
  This is a bold and dark-fruit wine. Intense aromas of dark berries, sweet cherry reduction, crushed rocks, and wet soil. On the palate, more juicy dark fruits. Minerally tannins. Mouth-filling and very concentrated. 88-89 points. RP89-91, WS90. (88 pts.)


• 2005 Château La Fleur de Boüard - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Lalande de Pomerol
  Exhuberant aromas of sweet black cherry, crushed rocks, and smoke jump out of the glass. On the palate, sweet dark fruits (centered around a plum core), smoked meats, and loamy earth. Refined and balanced. Although I slightly prefer this wine to La Vieille Cure, I really think the two wines are comparable in terms of quality. 88-89 points. RP90-92, WS90. (89 pts.)

Saint-Émilion

• 2005 Vieux Clos St. Émilion - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
  Funky aromas of shoe polish, red clay, and cherry. On the palate, some simple cherry and earth flavors. Flat in the mouth with a tart cherry finish. Really nothing to write home about. RP88-89. (83 pts.)


• 2005 Château Faizeau Vieilles Vignes - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Montagne-St. Émilion
  Earthy aromas of wet tobacco leaf and dark cherry. A layered palate of cassis, dark cherry, and smoke. Sweet tannins. Begins with a good degree of depth, but the finish tapers off rather quickly. 86-87 points. RP90-92, WS90. (86 pts.)


• 2005 Château Bellefont-Belcier - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
  Gorgeous aromas of scorched earth, grilled meats, spice, and cherry crepes -- just the kind of nose that one would want from a Bordeaux. Dense dark fruits on the palate with shadings of smoke, graphite, and earth. Ripe tannins. Refined and balanced. Really excellent stuff and a fantastic QPR to boot. 92-93 points. RP92-94, WS93. (92 pts.)


• 2005 Château Destieux - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
  Sweet nose of ripe plums, black raspberries, and dark cherries -- if served blind I probably would have guessed it was a New World wine. On the palate, protracted and dense dark fruits accentuated by graphite and white rocks. 90-91 points. RP92-94. (90 pts.)


• 2005 Château Bellevue St. Émilion Grand Cru - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
  This is another flamboyant wine with a New World nose of cassis and dark chocolate. Not as explosive as the Destieux, but still rich and little sweet. Dense dark berries on the palate, good length, and ripe tannins. A delicious wine, with a good deal of elegance, but for the money I would probably choose the Destieux. 90-91 points. RP94-96, WS91. (90 pts.)


• 2005 Château Troplong Mondot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
  Can you say wow? Intense and seductive aromas of scorched earth, smoke, cherry crepes, and brown spices. On the palate, dense and mouth-filling plum and cherry fruit, rich dark chocolate, accented with graphite and crushed rocks. Incredible structure and depth. An outstanding wine that embodies both grace and power. A classic! RP96-100, WS96. (95 pts.)

Left Bank

• 2005 Clos Manou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc
  This is a modest wine with a lot of personality and IMO another relative QPR for the vintage. Aromas of scorched earth, cherries flambé, and sweet tobacco. Palate mirrors the nose. A handsome wine that drinks pretty well now. If I had to pick a nit, however, I would have to say that the finish tapers off sooner than I would have liked. Starts out strong but finishes just a bit on the weak side. RP90-92, WS87. (90 pts.)


• 2005 Château Boyd-Cantenac - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
  Aromas of scorched earth, roasted coffee, leafy tobacco, and a bit of shoe polish kind of funkiness. On the palate, dense black fruits, dark chocolate, and charred wood. Full-bodied with gripping tannins. I might have scored this wine a bit higher had the nose been a little better. RP91-93, WS92. (88 pts.)


• 2005 Château Kirwan - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
  Dusty aromas of sweet cherries, dark chocolate, and tobacco leaf followed by dark cherries, cassis, and tobacco on the palate. An elegant wine with a surprisingly velvet-textured finish. Very nice! RP91-94, WS93. (91 pts.)


• 2005 The Winemakers' Collection Michel Rolland Cuvée No. 1 Château d'Arsac - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
  Muted aromas initially, but with heavy swirling the nose opens up and reveals sweet black raspberries, dark chocolate, and cassis. On the palate, cassis, chocolate, and cherry flavors are married together in a seamless package. A polished wine that might have come from anywhere. 89-90 points. RP92-94. (89 pts.)


• 2005 Château Haut-Bages Libéral - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  A rather sharp nose of burnt tobacco, herbs, and sour cherries. On the palate, more tart red fruit and a slightly vegetal component on the finish. OK, but I was not really digging this wine too much. RP88-90, WS93. (86 pts.)


• 2005 Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru) - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
  Exotic nose of sandlewood, Indian spices, antique shop, and dried cherries. The palate mirrors nose. Might be more interesting to some, but I was not a huge fan of it. RP94-96, WS92. (87 pts.)

Les Vieux Vins

• 1970 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
  An interesting wine to try. Mature aromas of mushrooms, truffles, smoke, red clay, minerals, and sweet tobacco. Still quite lively, but I feel that this wine is off-prime. OK, but not really my cup of tea. (86 pts.)


• 1989 Les Tourelles de Longueville - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Sharp nose of dried mushrooms, tobacco, cedar and soy. On the palate, nice cassis fruit with shadings of beef jerky, truffles, and sandlewood. Medium-short finish. 87-88 points. (87 pts.)

Sauternes

• 2005 Château de Cosse - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
  Notes of dried apricot, peaches, amd pecans. Not as much acidity as I usually prefer, but just enough to keep this wine playful and light. Fun to drink. (92 pts.)

In comparing my scores to some of the professional critics, while my evaluations alternated between the Wine Spectator and (the lower end of) Parker on the lesser expensive wines, it seems I tended to score my wines closer to the Spectator on the more expensive ones. Whether that means that my palate is more closely aligned with Suckling remains to be seen, as my experience with Bordeaux is still in its infant stages.

In the movie Sideways, Miles explains to Maya the reason for his passion for pinot noir: "Pinot is a hard grape to grow. As you know, it's thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early. Pinot needs constant care and attention and in fact can only grow in specific little tucked-away corners of the world."

One of these "tucked-away corners" just happens to be the Santa Rita Hills, which is located in the northwestern corner of Santa Barbara County and is slowly becoming known as one of the premiere regions for California pinot noir.

In 1996, Ron Melville, a successful financier and member of the Pacific Stock Exchange, decided he would marry his love for gardening and wine and turn his dream of owning his own vineyard into a reality. After scouting land up and down the coast of California, he settled upon an 82 acre plot of land just outside the tiny town of Lompoc.

Today, Melville Vineyards and Winery produces some the best pinot noir coming out the Central Coast. Following legendary pioneers such as Richard Sanford of Sanford Winery (and now Alma Rosa) and Jim Clendenon of Au Bon Climat, Melville produces world-class pinot noir through the meticulous management of his own vineyard. Rather than buy grapes from someone else, as is the winemaking trend nowadays, every bottle of wine produced by Melville comes from his own estate, one that is personally managed by Ron himself and his two sons. The result is a beautiful expression of the land and the people who so lovingly care for it, something the French call terroir.

On Saturday, Ron Melville hosted a retrospective of his wines. We tasted through his line-up of pinot noir (and chardonnay) from the 2000 vintage through to 2006, including barrel samples of his single-lots pinots. Pinot noir may be a hard grape to grow, but his wines are very easy to drink.

Cheers!




MELVILLE WINE DINNER - Antonello Ristorante - Costa Mesa, CA (10/6/2007)

Introduction

Focaccia di Recca - Thin Focaccia Bread filled with Mozzarella and Cresceza cheeses

Miniature Caprese - Toasted bread topped with Sliced Tomato, Bufula Mozzarella, little Oregano, Salt and Extra Virgin Olive Oil

• 2006 Melville Viognier Estate Verna's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
  A vibrant little wine and one of the better viogniers I have had from the SRH. Delicate notes of peaches and apricots with shadings of lime and pine. Lively, balanced, and very refreshing. I even went back for seconds. (91 pts.)

SRH Pinot Noir Vertical

Salmon alla Erbe - Fresh Salmon grilled with Garlic, Rosemary, Sage, Parsley, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and touch of Lemon

• 2000 Melville Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Given the price point of this wine, I'm more than a little surprised by how well it aged. Then again, it did come straight from the winery. Initial nose of cooked cherries, decaying logs, and touch of animal; with time in the glass, the nose became much less severe and a bit more floral. On the palate, tart cherries, cranberries, and chalky minerals. The acidity supports the fruit nicely. (87 pts.)


• 2001 Melville Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  This nose on this wine makes me think of a cherry pie being baked in log cabin in the middle of the forest. It has all of those elements and more. Bucolic aromas of cherry pie, tree bark, and pine needles followed by ripe cherries, raspberry puree, earth, and truffles on the palate. The nose is not as compelling as the 2003, but the longer finish makes this a better wine in my opinion. My WOTF. 88-89 points. (88 pts.)


• 2003 Melville Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  I loved the nose on this pinot as it had much more dark fruit characteristics (dark cherries, plum, and boysenberries) than the 2000 and 2001. On the palate, however, the wine seemed a bit thin, with a touch of green notes coming through on the very short and slightly watery finish. (87 pts.)


• 2006 Melville Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  This wine came across as too young to be drunk. For some reason, the nose seemed very muted and the jam and earth flavors did not seem to be well knit together. I was going to reserve judgment about this wine, but since it has already been released, I feel compelled to assign it a score. 85-86 points. (85 pts.)

Terraces Pinot Noir Vertical

Spezzatino - Franco's mother in law recipe: Vegetable, Potato, Tomato Beef Stew

• 2002 Melville Pinot Noir Terraces - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  I gave this wine 88 points back in May and I'm pleased to see it is holding up well. Mature aromas of cooked cherries, balsamic vinegar, Asian spice, and dried herbs followed by sour cherries and crushed rocks on the palate. A good wine that is drinking well right now. 88-89 points. (88 pts.)


• 2003 Melville Pinot Noir Terraces - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Dense aromas of wet soil, minerals, rose petals, and cinnamon spice followed by a tight palate of dark cherries, blackberries, dried herbs and mineral. Complex, but needs decanting or more time in the bottle. (88 pts.)


• 2004 Melville Pinot Noir Terraces - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  It is becoming more and more apparent to me that the Terraces need time. The 50% stem inclusion is still quite apparent here. Nose of cooked cherries, game, and asparagus. On the palate, ripe cherries, blueberries, tobacco leaf and stem. A powerful and complex pinot, but a bit too vegetal for me. 86-87 points. (87 pts.)


• 2005 Melville Pinot Noir Terraces - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  A Ron Melville was proud to announce at our table that this is a man's pinot. Indeed, many of the wines in this flight were quite masculine in character and often had notes of dried herbs and/or tobacco leaf. This one seemed to have both. Deep aromas of dark cherries, dried cranberries, and wet soil followed by white pepper, tobacco leaf, dried herbs and earth on the palate. My WOTF. (89 pts.)


• 2006 Melville Pinot Noir Terraces - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  As a barrel sample, it still comes across as very primary and raw. Grapey and chewy, with notes of dried cherries, plum, blackberries, and black pepper. No doubt, the wine will be very much in the same bloodline as the previous Terraces. Interesting to taste, hard to score.

Carrie's Pinot Noir Vertical

Taglioline alla Bolognese - Homemade thin pasta prepared in a veal (ragu) sauce

• 2001 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  A terrific pinot! Rich aromas of dark cherries, blueberries, and brown spices followed by an opulent palate of ripe cherries, plum, black raspberries, earth, and truffles. Sexy and delicious. 92-93 points. My #2 WOTN. (92 pts.)


• 2002 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  This pinot came across as one of the more tannic in the flight with a strong black tea and tree bark component. With more time in the glass, the tannins started to subside and the wine reveals ripe black cherries, plum, and boysenberries. (91 pts.)


• 2003 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Much like the 2003 Estate pinot, while I really enjoyed the dark fruit aromas, this wine came across a bit thinner on the palate, at least compared to the other wines in this flight. That said, I think still preferred this wine to any of the Terraces. Notes of cherries, cranberries, a touch of apple peel. 89-90 points. (90 pts.)


• 2004 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  This wine is the real deal and shows what the SRH can offer in terms of pinot noir. Opulent and rich, with notes of dark cherry, blueberries, boysenberries, cinnamon spice, and dark chocolate truffles. Full in the mouth with a long long finish. My WOTF and WOTN. 93-94 points. (93 pts.)


• 2005 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Perhaps the most elegant pinot in this flight with notes of red cherries, red plum, black raspberries, and black tea. Delicious. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)


• 2006 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Like the 2006 Terraces, this barrel sample is still quite raw and primary. Grapey and hollow in the midpalate, but I have no doubt that Carrie will develop some curves in the coming months.

Chardonnay: Inox and SRH

Polpette di Garnchio - Homemade crab cake topped with a fresh mango sauce

Tonna Tartar - Ahi Tuna finely chopped seasoned with a touch of Mustard, Shallots, Lemon and topped with Micro Arugola

• 2001 Melville Chardonnay Clone 76 Inox Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  A steely chardonnay with intriguing notes of hay, cheese rind, smoke, honeydew melon, and lemon. Very nice acidity. An intersting wine; just not my cup of tea. 86-87 points. (86 pts.)


• 2001 Melville Chardonnay Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
  A really lovely chardonnay with mature notes of honey, caramel, melon, and lemon curd. Lime acidity on the finish lifts the rounder notes in this wine. Very nice and real treat. My WOTF. (91 pts.)


• 2003 Melville Chardonnay Clone 76 Inox Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Reminds me more of a sauvignon blanc than a chardonnay. Nose of gooseberry (cat pee?) and lime followed by hay and flint flavors. My least favorite wine of the evening. 84-85 points. (84 pts.)


• 2003 Melville Chardonnay Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
  Notes of honeydew melon, citrus rind, and margarita mix. Round and elegant on the palate, with a nice smokey note on the finish. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)


• 2006 Melville Chardonnay Clone 76 Inox Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  I was quite impressed with this bottle. Notes of lychee, banana peel, and citrus rind. Clean and vibrant and joy to drink. Given my impressions of the other older Inox chards, I think I prefer them on the young side. 89-90 points. (89 pts.)

Pinot Noir: High Density and Clone 115 Indigene

Filetto di Cervo - Venison Loin topped with a wine must and truffle sauce

• 2001 Melville Pinot Noir High Density - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  The slightly stemmy aromas in this wine are offset by a good dose of hard spices. On the palate, bright red cherries, black tea, and asparagus flavors meld in a way that is not although unpleasant. (87 pts.)


• 2001 Melville Pinot Noir Clone 115 Indigene - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  A very interesting and aromatic mix of black cherries, raspberries, caramel, toffee and a pinch of white pepper. Intriguing and complex with very nice acidity. 90-91 points and my WOTF. (91 pts.)


• 2003 Melville Pinot Noir High Density - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Notes of black cherry, plum, and strawberries. Hard spices on the finish add interest. (89 pts.)


• 2003 Melville Pinot Noir Clone 115 Indigene - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  I find it very interesting that wild yeasts can impart a comparable level of complexity as a blend of 14 different clones, which what is found in their High Density pinots. Notes of black cherry, boysenberry, spice cake, and toffee are supported by zesty acidity. (90 pts.)


• 2005 Melville Pinot Noir High Density - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  I am impressed by the elegance of this pinot, which I attribute in part to the very even 2005 growing season. Graceful notes of red cherries, cranberries, and strawberries. Brown spices on the finish add compexity and depth. (90 pts.)


• 2005 Melville Pinot Noir Clone 115 Indigene - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  A very good wine, but perhaps my least favorite of the 115 Indigenes. Notes of plum, dark cherries, caramel, and black tea. Needs some time to smooth out the tannins. The finish is marred by a searing heat, which tips the scales at 15.5% alcohol. (88 pts.)

Dolce

Tartufo - Chocolate Truffle, White Chocolate truffle, Mixed Berries and Nuts and Strawberry dipped in Chocolate

Phlin and Ron Melville

OC WINE DINNER - Antonellos - Orange County, CA (9/9/2007)

Champagne Reception

Capesante alla griglia - Grilled scallops

Focaccia di Recca - Layered flatbread filled with assorted cheese

• N.V. Roederer Estate Brut Rosé Anderson Valley - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
  Nice toasted flavors. Could have used a bit more acidity and length. (86 pts.)


• N.V. Louis Bouillot Crémant de Bourgogne Perle d'Aurore - France, Burgundy, Crémant de Bourgogne
  A nice Cremant to begin the evening. Crisp with nice red berry flavors. (88 pts.)

Flight 1: Chardonnay

Carpaccio di Pesce Spada - Thin slices of swordfish topped with arugula and Mache tossed with lemon and extra virgin olive oil

• 2004 Kistler Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Aromas of lemon oil, brioche, green banana, and limestone. On the palate, excellent precision and depth of flavor, offering intense flavors of citrus and orange marmalade. Nice acidity and finish. Shows some heat on the finish. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)


• 2004 Kistler Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
  The nose on this wine was more intense than the Vine Hill; however, it came across more lean and muted in the mouth. In spite of being a bit closed on the palate, I did enjoy the minerality of this wine. 87-88 points. (87 pts.)


• 2005 Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Seasmoke - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  I was really impressed with this wine. Focused aromas of pear and green apple with tropical fruit accents. On the palate, full and expansive, with delicious notes of creme brulee, brioche, and lemon custard. This is my second taste of this wine since March and it seems to have improved with time. My WOTF. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)


• 2005 Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Mount Carmel - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Slightly muted aromas of lemon-lime and minerals. On the palate, some very interesting flavors of marshmallow, green banana, citrus, and minerals. A very good wine, just less interesting compared to the others in this flight. (89 pts.)


• 2005 Diatom Chardonnay Clos Pepe Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  This is a chardonnay that is bound to produce polarizing opinions. Some really liked it at our table; others did not care for it. I happened to be in the latter camp. Notes of straw, lime, and crushed limestone. Although crisp on the palate, I found the flavors rather lean and actually kind of tinny. 85-86 points. (85 pts.)

Flight 2: Older Pinot Noir

Salmone alle Erbe - Grilled salmon with herb sauce

• 2000 Arcadian Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  This is my second time trying this wine, and I seem to like it more each time. I will say, however, that I would never have guessed that this wine was from Pisoni Vineyard. Lovely and complex aromas of wild strawberries, rhubarb, dried herbs, and earth. Light and elegant on the palate, with graceful strawberry and mushroom flavors. A delicious pinot that paired extremely well with the grilled salmon and herb sauce. (91 pts.)


• 2002 Tandem Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Some very fruit-forward aromas of dark cherries and strawberries. On the palate, however, the fruitiness seems rather absent and the wine comes across rather lean with some tart cherry, leather, and mushroom flavors. My guess is that this wine suffered from following the excellent Arcadian Pisoni. My notes say "weak tea," and in retropect I think that it is its tea-like quality that puts this wine in the shadow of its flashier neighbors -- a quaint cottage on a street of McMansions. 87-88 points. (87 pts.)


• 2000 Barnett Vineyards Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  This wine lost me at the nose, which reminded my of furniture polish. Some suggested it was cooked, so I just dumped it without even tasting it. NR (flawed)


• 2002 Sea Smoke Pinot Noir Botella - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Oh Sea Smoke, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Seductive aromas of ripe cherries, baking spices, and vanilla bean. On the palate, it is the cashmere texture that really wins me over, not to mention the plush cherry and plum notes. A delicious wine, drinking perfectly now, and the clear winner for my WOTF. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)


• 2002 Sea Smoke Pinot Noir Ten - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  This wine clearly shows its family resemblance to the Botella but on a grander scale. The nose also shows ripe cherry, spice, and vanilla bean aromas but with an additional graham cracker note that is very appealling. Richer and denser than the Botella, this wine could still use more time to allow the oak to integrate, and in spite of a slight sherried note on the midpalate and finish was really a hedonistic wine to drink. Perhaps it boils down to stylistic preferences, but I actually preferred the petite and feminine Botella to her big-boned sister. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)

Flight 3: Younger Pinot Noir

Gamberitti con Prosciutto - Large prawn wrapped with prosciutto drizzled with a light mustard sauce and served with sautéed spinach

• 2003 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Koplen - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  While I am generally a very big fan of these wines, I have to say that I found this particular bottle a little disappointing -- disappointing not because I found the wine to be poor, but rather because it did not give me that "OMG this rocks!" reaction that I usually get with KB, especially the SVD wines. They have set the bar very high for me, and so one cannot help but have very high expectations whenever their wines are brought to the table. That said, this wine did exhibit a very appealling nose of plum, dark cherries, brown sugar, and dried herbs. On the palate, far from being thin or acidic, this wine expresses rich yet slightly monolithic flavors of dark cherry and cocoa. Finishes a bit on the hot side. Still a nice drink, however, and one that I would not hesitate to try again. (88 pts.)


• 2004 Pisoni Pinot Noir - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  I must have been mesmerized by this wine because I have surprisingly few notes on it. What I did record, however, is the intensity and depth of the fruit, both on the nose and the palate. This wine boasts gobs of black cherries, ripe plums, and graham cracker aromas followed by mouth-filling flavors of more dark cherries and plums, some wet soil, and brown spices. The finish lasts longer than a Peter Jackson film. Rich, seductive, primal, this is a pinot to go ape over -- Ann Darrow ain't got nuthin' on this wine. WOTF and my WOTN. 93-94 points. (93 pts.)


• 2004 Lucia Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  Putting the Lucia next to the Pisoni was like bringing a knife to a gun fight. There was simply no contest. Nice black cherry and baking spices on the nose. More black cherry on the palate, with some shadings of wet soil. A very good wine in its own right, but next to the Pisoni, it came across a bit simple and two-dimensional. 89-90 points. (89 pts.)


• 2004 Copain Pinot Noir "En Bas" Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
  The first bottle I tasted was corked, but Rob was kind enough to give me a sampling of the bottle at their table. Notes of tart cherry, boysenberry, and earth. An elegant and well-made wine. (90 pts.)


• 2005 Siduri Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  The Siduri Pisoni ranks up there as one of my all-time favorite pinots. I would even go so far as to rank the 1999 and 2000 vintages in the same league as Marcassin and Aubert. So imagine my surprise and disappointment when I tasted the 2005 vintage this evening, which I found thin and a bit simple. Initially tipped off by the unusual red apple and lemon-lime aromas, in place of the masculine flavors and feminine texture was a wine that seemed really dilute and flavorless to me. On the palate, some innocuous red cherry flavors -- that's all. Of course, I am fully prepared to acknowledge that this might have been an off bottle. I certainly hope it was, as I have several of these babies in my cellar. 86-87 points. (86 pts.)


• 2005 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Melville Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  I think the use of whole-cluster in this wine works to its benefit and detriment. For even though it had been double decanted for approximately 40 minutes prior to dinner, it still showed extremely stemmy and peppery by the time of the third course. At this stage, I felt that it was not a wine that I would have wanted to drink. However, rather than dump it, I set it aside, and when I returned to it at the end of the dinner, maybe several hours later, it was just starting to come around and showed some nice candied cherry and strawberry flavors. Unfortunately, by then I was pretty much done drinking and did not give this wine the attention it probably deserved. So while clearly built to age (a minimum of 5 years IMO), if you want to drink this wine now, it needs to be decanted well in advance (5 hours would not be unreasonable) in order to enjoy the fruits of B-C's labor. 88+ points. (88 pts.)

Flight 4: Older Syrah

Risotto ai Funghi Porcini - Arborio rice cooked with white wine, porcini mushrooms and topped with shaved parmesan

Ravioletti di Mamma Pina - Miniature ravioli filled with braised veal prepared in a Bolognese sauce

• 1999 Clos Mimi Syrah Shell Creek - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
  This was an interesting wine to try, but ultimately, it did not really suit my tastes. Aromas of raisons, smoke, and dried dates. On the palate, prunes and raisons. Smooth texture, but a bit overripe for me. (85 pts.)


• 2000 Arcadian Syrah Garys' Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  This was a very enjoyable wine, with nice black plum, pepper, and earth notes. Smooth in texture. 88-89 points. (88 pts.)


• 2000 Kongsgaard Syrah Hudson Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
  A really delicious syrah. Blackberries, dark chocolate, espresso, and black volcanic rock on the nose. On the palate, a dense medley of dark fruits, wet soil, and white pepper wrapped in a cloak of cashmere tannins. A powerful yet elegant wine. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)


• 2001 Novy Family Wines Syrah Santa Lucia Highlands - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  It was really interesting to try a Novy with a little bit of age on it. However, even though it is well-made wine, the flavor profile really did not suit my tastes. Intense aromas of grilled meat and black pepper. On the palate, very dense and focused notes of blackberry, charcoal, and cracked black pepper. If black pepper is your thing, then this is definitely your wine. 85-86 points. (85 pts.)


• 2003 Pax Syrah Walker Vine Hill - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Now we are talking. This syrah just hits me in all the right places. Hedonistic aromas of blueberries, blackberries, bacon fat, and brown sugar. On the palate, this mouth-filling wine boasts generous amounts of blue and black fruits, a plush texture, and a very long finish. If only we all had a little Pax the world would be a better place. My WOTF. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)


• 2003 Garretson Wine Company Syrah Mon Amie Bassetti Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, San Luis Obispo County
  A nice wine, even in spite of the 16.8% alcohol. Hefty notes of game, black fruits, and tar. Kind of a bruiser. 88-89 points. (88 pts.)

Flight 5: Younger Syrah

Costolette d’ Agnello al Rosemarino - Baby New Zealand Lamb chop grilled med-rare topped with a rosemary sauce served with a caponata mix

• 2004 Stolpman Angeli - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
  A devilishly good wine. Dense aromas of blueberries, brown sugar, and white pepper. The explosive palate mirrors the nose with the addition of more mouth-watering spices. This wine could be reduced into a BBQ sauce and slathered on ribs, which is a very good thing in book. My WOTF. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)


• 2004 Tensley Syrah Colson Canyon - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
  Another outstanding syrah. Layered aromas of blueberry, black cherry, and wet soil. On the palate, the round texture of this wine provides a nice vehicle for the sweet blueberry and blackberry flavors. Finishes a bit hot with a touch of white and black peppercorns. (91 pts.)


• 2004 Rhys Syrah Alesia Chileno Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  I somehow missed tasting this one. Oops!


• 2004 Lucia Syrah Susan's Hill - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  This wine is still going strong. Loved when I had it the first time, and I love it still. Lovely aromas of blueberries, lavender, and violets provide a sense of elegance and complexity. On the palate, a medley of blue and black fruits with some accents of white pepper show the power of this wine. Very opulent and intense, but quite balanced as well. (92 pts.)


• 2005 Leigh Cellars Syrah Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey County
  This wine came at the end of a very strenuous flight, so my poor palate may not have picked up all its nuances. I was able to detect, however, some very nice notes of black and red plums, as well as some grilled meats and pepper. A fine effort. (88 pts.)

Dolce

Souffle di Choccolato - Flourless soufflé caked filled with chocolate and drizzled with hot fudge served with a side of vanilla bean ice cream

Thomas Rivers Brown fell in love with wine before he fell in love with his then girlfriend, now wife, Genevieve Marie Welsh. But together, they have created a wine that is the result of their love of a wine that is ironically called the heartbreak grape: Pinot Noir.

Rivers-Marie is the best Pinot Noir you have never heard of. Why is that? Because Thomas makes wine in such ridiculously low quantities that it achieves cult status the moment it is released and then only to collectors.

Over the weekend, I was fortunate enough to be invited by some of these collectors to a wine dinner in Newport Beach. There, we tasted through all the Rivers-Marie wines, including his Cabs, and a Pinot of which there were only 56 bottles produced. I was told that Thomas sold this wine to only nine people in the world, and three of them were sitting right there with us for dinner that evening.

Rarity aside, what makes Rivers-Marie wines so unusual is the way he makes them: he does virtually nothing to them. That is how much he loves his grapes. I know this sounds counterintuitive, but most winemakers achieve the flavor of their wines through manipulation and the application of various commercial supplements. But Thomas does none of that. He adds no water, no acid, no commercial yeasts, no chemicals, and no enzymes. He does not filter his wines, nor does he fine them. Most winemakers would not take such a risky approach because, to them, without science there is no art. But Thomas views wine as art only. He lets nature speak for herself and hopes that what she says will be beautiful, which it is.

For Thomas and Genevieve, a beautiful wine requires a generous leap of faith -- kind of like love.




RIVERS-MARIE DINNER - Sage Restaurant - Newport Beach, CA (7/28/2007)

Assorted Hors d'oeuvres

Spicy Ahi Spring Rolls
Heirloom Tomato Bruschetta

• 2005 Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Mount Carmel - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  In spite of its tropical lushness -- with notes of pineapple, kiwi, and lemon zest -- the palate is actually quite restrained and focused. Intense fruit flavor rounded out with a touch of toasted oak. This is a wine that could actually benefit from some cellar time. (90 pts.)


• 2005 Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Sweeney Canyon - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  I liked this chardonnay very much and had it not been marred by the heat, I probably would haved score it higher. Delicate aromas of orange blossom and citrus followed by lime and mineral on the palate. A rich and opulent wine. (92 pts.)

Course One

Grilled Portabello Mushroom
rosemary goat cheese polenta, roasted tomato coulis

• 2002 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Summa Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  88 cases produced. 50% new French oak. 13.3% alcohol. Lovely, layered aromas of dark cherries, dried cranberries, and with even more air, rose petals, wild strawberries, and minerals. On the palate, sour cherries, forest floor, and minerals. Very nice and wonderful way to begin the evening. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)


• 2002 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Old Vine Summa - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  44 cases produced. 100% new French oak. 14.4% alcohol. Compared to the regular Summa, the super silky Old Vine Summa makes the former wear like a cotton shirt. Predictably deeper and richer and my WOTN, in part I think because it is drinking so well right now (whereas the others need more time to come together and/or mellow out). Enchanting aromas of dried cranberries, black cherries, pomegranate, and just a hint of sweet tobacco followed by gorgeous mouth-filling strawberry and cranberry fruit. The oak is perfectly integrated and gives the wine a complexity that is hard to describe. All I can say is that it's there without being there. Finishes with a nice kick of acidity that prepares the palate for food and keeps you returning for more. Delicious. (93 pts.)


• 2003 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Summa Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  101 cases produced. 50% new French oak. 13.3% alcohol. This bottle may have been slightly off because it seem rather herbal on the nose and thin on the palate. Beneath the herbal notes, however, I did detect some notes of wild strawberries, sous bois, and wood smoke. The midpalate seemed a bit hollow, although it finishes rather well. 86-87 points. (86 pts.)


• 2003 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Old Vine Summa - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  44 cases produced. 100% new French oak. 13.8% alcohol. This Old Vine Summa showed a darker fruit profile than the 2002: aromas of plum, boysenberry, and dark cherry fruit with shadings of caramel and sweet vanillin oak. Nice texture and structure. Richer and more opulent than the 2002. Finishes with a juicy burst of red fruit. Delicious and just a hair behind the 2002 OV. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)

Course Two

Pancetta and Panko Crusted Wild Alaskan Salmon
chanterelle mushrooms, fresh lima beans, agretti, pinot jus

• 2004 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  180 cases produced. 50% new French oak. 14.2% alcohol. Deep notes of dark cherry, wet earth, spice box, and sweet tobacco on the nose, which continue on to the palate with an added layer of black raspberry and minerals. Nice structure. Slight touch of citrus on the finish. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)


• 2004 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Summa Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  130 cases produced. 75% new French oak. 14.1% alcohol. This wine was surprisingly similar to the previous wine, although what did distringuish it from the SC pinot was a certain purity and intensity of fruit, one that will hopefully develop additional layers with more time in the cellar. As of this tasting, the SC just seemed a bit more open and ready to drink. Dark cherry, wet soil, and wet leaves on the nose. On the palate, black raspberries, blackberries, and forest floor. 90-91 points. (91 pts.)


• 2004 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Old Vine Summa - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  60 cases produced. 100% new French oak. 14.2% alcohol. This wine was extremely dense and concentrated, almost to the point of being monolithic. But age should loosen it up a bit, and when it does, it will be a beauty, perhaps at a level surpassing the 2002 Old Vine. Intense aromas of dark cherry, wet loamy soil, and cola. The palate delivers more dark cherry, some ripe plum, and good heaping of wet earth. Finishes with cranberry and pomegranate fruit. The intensity of fruit is quite remarkable. I hope to be able to try this again in 5 years because it has a lot going for it. 92+ points. (92 pts.)

Course Three

Roast Duck Breast
roasted root vegetables, arugula, dried cranberry port sauce

• 2005 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Occidental Ridge Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  140 cases produced. 67% new French oak. 14.2% alcohol. This wine is wide open for business and tasting really great. Aromas of ripe strawberries, raspberries, and spice. A burst of juicy red fruits on the palate coupled with bright acidity. A charming wine with a lot of youthful appeal. Perhaps a bit simpler than the Summa wines, but why knock simple when it brings such instant gratification? (92 pts.)


• 2005 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Summa Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  45 cases produced. 100% new French oak. 13.7% alcohol. This wine seemed rather closed as it was not giving up much. Perhaps it was not decanted enough, which may indeed be the case. But as it was, it was a rather hard pinot to drink. Dark, almost cabernet-like aromas of currant, plum, and peppercorns. The palate mirrors the nose. Kind of unyielding and tough and, ultimately, one of my least favorite pinots of the evening. (86 pts.)


• 2005 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Old Vine Summa - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  54 bottles produced. 1 new quarter barrel. 14.1% alcohol. What a treat to sample this rare bottle of wine! At the same time, what a shame that it was opened so young as it clearly needs about 5 more years in the cellar. Interestingly, however, it was more open than the regular Summa. Exotic and profound layers of black cherry, kirsch, wet soil, stone, pine, sour cherry, and cranberry. Finishes with an interesting tartness (lime?). There is huge potential to this wine. I just wish that I will be fortunate enough to taste another another of this ever dwindling supply. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)

Course Four

Red Wine Braised Beef Short Ribs
cavolo nero kale, cipollini onion, roast carrots, romano beans, red wine beef jus, dijon horsradish cream

• 2003 Rivers-Marie Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
  50 cases produced. 100% new French oak. 14.9% alcohol. This wine sort of got eclipsed by the wines of the previous flight, which I felt were a little more interesting than this one. While still very young and tight, I did get dense notes of currant, blackberries, molasses, and crushed rocks. Not a bad wine, but I ended up abandoning it for more of the Old Vine Summa. (89 pts.)


• 2004 Rivers-Marie Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
  Sadly, our bottle was corked.

Dessert

Spiced Fig Cake
chocolate port syrup

• 2003 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
  Thick and unctuous and bit flabby for me. Needs more decanting.


• 2003 Château Climens - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
  Very honeyed and just a bit too sweet and flabby. Where's the acidity?

Yes, I do. I like pinot, so should you!

SAN DIEGO PINOT-FEST - Cuvee Restaurant - Del Mar, CA (7/17/2007)

• 2006 Kutch Pinot Noir Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Breezy nose of watermelon and unripe strawberries. The strawberry intensifies on the palate and picks up some citrus rind on the finish. Simple and light and would serve very nicely as a picnic wine. Not a serious rosé, but then again, who wants their rosé serious? Not me. I like mine carefree and insouciant. 87-88 points. (87 pts.)


• 1993 Etude Pinot Noir - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros
  A very well made pinot and kind of pushing the limit of how aged I like my CA pinots to be, especially those from Carneros. Slightly sherried nose combined with mature aromas of wild berries and damp autumn leaves. Crisp palate with the flavor of freeze-dried berries. 86-87 points. (86 pts.)


• 1980 Mount Eden Vineyards Pinot Noir Estate Bottled - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
  This was an interesting wine to taste but not to drink. In spite of the ironic novelty of this wine, I found it rather incoherent and lifeless as a pinot; it should have been euthanized years ago. Aromas of charred cabbages and beef broth give way to a very off-putting flavor of cabbage stew and beef jerky on the palate (and I like beef jerky!). Acid and wood closes off the experiment. Undrinkable, to me at least. (65 pts.)


• 2004 Auteur Pinot Noir Hyland Vineyard - USA, Oregon
  This was an interesting wine that kept improving in the glass. I suspect that it could have benefited from a more healthy decant. The nose was initially quite tight and dense, with aromas of cracked peppercorn, clove, and tree bark. With time the nose softens up a bit to reveal some wild berries, and the palate offers nice layers of fresh raspberry and cherry fruit. Certainly a wine to keep one's eye on. 89-90 points. (89 pts.)


• 2002 Soter Pinot Noir Beacon Hill - USA, Oregon, Yamhill County
  This was kind of a mysterious wine to me in that I knew there was more to it than was presented to me. Interesting nose of dark fruit, Asian spices, and what I like to call "antique shoppe." Dense flavors of dark then sour cherries that really didn't seem to go anywhere. It was just kind of there, and then it was gone. Where did it go? I don't know. That's part of a mystery for me. 87-88 points. (87 pts.)


• 2002 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Beaux Frères Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
  On its own, I might have liked this one quite a bit more. However, given the company of wine I was in, I'll just say that it was very good. Not excellent, just very good. Of course, I may be splitting hairs here, but isn't that what wine geeks do? Very good aromas of cherry cider and spice introduce very good sour cherry and plum fruit flavors, some earthiness, and a very good acidic spine. (88 pts.)


• 2002 Marcassin Pinot Noir Blue Slide Ridge - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  A really lovely wine and tied for my #2 WOTN. Rich dark cherry and black raspberry fruit flood the nose and palate in a way that both deep and broad. Wet earth and sweet vanillin tannins round out the flavors in this opulent wine, which in spite of its flashiness, seems also to keep very good posture. Reminds me of Catherine Zeta-Jones -- both sexy and classy at the same time. 93-94 points. (93 pts.)


• 2000 Arcadian Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  As with many of the wines I tasted tonight, I might have liked this one more had I tried it on its own. Although I am a huge fan of Pisoni fruit, which I think produces some of the best CA pinot I have ever had, for me at least, the jury is still out on how Joe Davis works this fruit. Instead of the dark fruits that I typically find (and love!) in wines from this vineyard, here I get more red fruits, in particular red cherries, along with some new leather and pine. The acidity in this wine is very bright, and I love how it paired with my duck, but one wonders whether the fruit will be able to stand up to the tart acidity as it ages. Nonetheless, a first class effort. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)


• 2004 Vision Cellars Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County
  I consider this wine a guilty pleasure because although I found it a bit on the sweet side, which tells me that I need to hold on to my other bottles a bit longer, I completely reveled in it. Aromas of cinnamon stick and black cherry compote greet the nose and tell me this is going to fun to drink. Ripe strawberries, blueberries, and cherry burst onto the youthful glycerinous palate, coupled with a touch of vanilla, to provide a vibrant and playful experience. A bit more acidity would have been nice to provide discipline and structure, but what can I say, I loved it. (92 pts.)


• 2003 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Kanzler - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Can we say Cinnamon Toast Crunch? This is what greets my senses when I bring the glass to my nose. While the previous wine (2004 Vision SC) was youthful and playful, this one is downright mischievous. Dark rich cherry, blueberry, and black raspberry on the palate, along with some baking spices, to create a nice interplay of sweetness and spice. With one sip, the former seems to dominate; with another, the latter. I never really know what I am going to get with this wine. The one constant, however, is the heat, which bothered me. So while I really enjoyed the game of tag on the tasebuds, ultimately, the heat started to wear me down. (91 pts.)


• 1999 Siduri Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  The last time I had this, I loved it. This is now my second taste of this wine and I still love it. It edges out Marcassin and August West as my WOTN. I don't know, but there is just something about Siduri and Pisoni that, for me at least, just screams Grand Cru. Great nose of black raspberry jam, dark cherry, and a hint of black tea and cola. A velvety palate complements the nose, and the very good acidity lends nice structure to put this wine into perfect balance. Opulent and elegant at the same time. (95 pts.)


• 2004 Belle Glos Pinot Noir Clark & Telephone Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
  I found this wine slightly schizophrenic. Nose of wet earth, autumn leaves, and mushrooms. The palate, however, is a totally different story. It's sweet, and very fruit forward, with layers of blackberries, cherry jam, and cocoa. As Aiden mentioned, taken separately, I like those characteristics. But together, they are like the odd couple. (86 pts.)


• 2004 Domaine Alfred Pinot Noir Califa Chamisal Vineyards - USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
  This wine was almost over the top for me, with its rich black raspberry, ripe cherry, plum, and mocha latte notes, but it somehow managed to stay pretty well in balance. Ultimately, I liked it very much. Glycerinous, almost creamy, mouthfeel. Needs time to let the fruit mellow out a bit. (90 pts.)


• 2005 August West Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  This wine was a real treat and tied for my #2 WOTN. Just a wonderful, hedonistic, medley of fresh raspberries purée, strawberry jam, vanilla, and spice. Juicy acidity keeps you coming back for more. This wine reminds me a young Julia Roberts wearing her red evening gown in Pretty Women -- absolutely gorgeous! 93-94 points. (93 pts.)


• 2005 Sojourn Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Kind of a let down after the August West. Even though it is a 2005, it came across as a bit more mature for me. Some cherry cider and rhubarb notes as well as citrus peel on the finish. (87 pts.)

Bob Foley has the reputation for producing some of the best cabernet- and merlot-based wines in the Napa Valley. His wines are never subtle, always intense, and sure to leave an impression on your palate and stains on your teeth. His approach is always to source from mountain vineyards that are planted in well-drained and nutrient poor soils, which stress the vines and cause them to produce small, intensely-flavored grapes. The result are wines that are rich and concentrated and absolutely delicious.

On Saturday, a group of winos gathered together to celebrate the wines of Bob Foley: Pride, Robert Foley (his own label), Switchback Ridge, and Hourglass. Bob was kind enough to donate a few wines from his own personal cellar, as was Kelly Peterson, the owner of Switchback Ridge. The wines from their cellars prove how important properly cellaring is for wine. Kelly's 1999 wines, for example, tasted like they were bottle this year.

One of the things that surprised me was just how delicious merlot can be. The movie Sideways may have caused people to question their palate for merlot, but when done right, merlot can be downright exquisite. Sure, it often works better as a blending grape, but there is a reason why it is used for blending: because it can often make red wine better just by its very addition. And lest we have forgotten, Mile's treasured bottle of 1961 Cheval Blanc is, in fact, a merlot-based wine.

THE WINES OF ROBERT FOLEY - Antonello Ristorante - Costa Mesa, CA (6/16/2007)

Flight 1: Whites

Carpaccio of fresh Hawaiian center cut swordfish, drizzled with lemon and olive oil, sprinkled with capers, and topped with baby arugula

• 2004 Pride Mountain Chardonnay Vintner's Select Cuvée Mountain Top Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County
  Not my favorite style of chardonnay. Nose of lemon curd, vanilla, and toasted oak. Nice butterscotch note on the palate, although the heavy use of oak seems to mask most of the fruit. Heat on the finish. (86 pts.)


• 2005 Pride Mountain Viognier - USA, California, Sonoma County
  I really enjoyed this wine. Aromatic nose of bubblegum (I said Bazooka while LB said Hello Kitty), peach, lychee, and mineral. More peach and some light citrus notes on the palate. An opulent wine, one that seemed to pair best with the swordfish carpacccio, yet very refreshing and easy to drink. WOTF. (91 pts.)


• 2006 Robert Foley Pinot Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley
  A bit outsized by the 2005 Pride viognier that preceded it. Honeydew melon, cantalope, and lemon zest aromas on the nose. Delicate peach flavor on the attack, but then turns watery and thin and finishes rather short. 86-87 points. (87 pts.)

Flight 2: 1990s

Porcini mushroom risotto with fresh Parmigiano Reggiano

• 1999 Switchback Ridge Merlot Peterson Family Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
  This wine is showing extremely young and vibrant, which I attribute in part to the fact that it has been impeccably stored in Kelly Peterson's own cellar. Rich sweet mocha and cherry compote on the nose. Palate perfectly matches nose. As Parker notes, "lush" and "mouth-filling." I concur. (91 pts.)


• 1999 Pride Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
  This wine is starting to show some of its age, although I'm not sure to its benefit. Dusty aromas of cedar, tobacco, and smoke. A bit monolithic on the palate, with narrowly focused dark fruit flavors. Nonetheless, a smooth wine. (88 pts.)


• 1997 Pride Mountain Reserve Claret - USA, California, Napa Valley
  This wine is drinking beautifully right now. Complex and multi-dimensional in aromas and flavors. Initially began with a shy nose, but by the end of the risotto course, which I loved, I returned to it and was able to get some nice black currant, dark cherry, and hickory smoke aromas. Rich medley red and black fruits on the palate -- in particular red currant, cranberry, and blackberry. Tannins seem pretty well resolved. Very silky texture. A lovely wine. 93-94 points. WOTF and tied for WOTN. (94 pts.)


• 1999 Pride Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
  I wish I had devoted more time to this wine, as I think it really had some very nice characteristics to it. Nose of currants, smoke, and graphite. Red fruits and toasted oak on the palate. (92 pts.)


• 1999 Robert Foley Claret - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
  Very nice depth to this young wine, which I believe came from Robert Foley's own cellar, and should get better with more time in the bottle. Cassis, espresso, and cedar on the nose. Intense and concentrated on the palate, with black currant, coffee, wet loamy soil, and graphite flavors. 91+ points. (91 pts.)


• 1999 Switchback Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Peterson Family Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Another perfectly stored wine from Kelly Peterson's cellar. Rich sweet nose of melted dark chocolate. Dense and layered on the palate, with sweet plum, cherry and vanilla flavors. Creamy and decadent. Like a liquid red velvet cake. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)


• 1999 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
  This perfectly stored wine came from Robert Foley's own cellar. The gorgeous nose reminds me of a left-bank Bordeaux, with its intoxicating aromas of cassis, scorched earth, and graphite. A pure expression of fruit on the palate, with ripe cherries, blackberries, espresso, and sweet oak. Smooth and lovely to drink. 93-94 points. Very close to being the WOTF. (93 pts.)

Flight 3: 2000s

Fliet of beef tenderloin with a rosemary brandy sauce, served with creamy polenta

• 2004 Pride Mountain Merlot Vintner's Select Cuvée Mountain Top Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County
  Never thought I would rank a merlot as one of the WOTN, but this one just rocked my world. A huge wine, no doubt, but I loved it. Rich nose of dark cherry, cinnamon, clove, and molasses. On the palate, more black cherry, mocha, and Asian spices. An incredibly lush and multilayered wine. Just terrific stuff! WOTF and tied for WOTN. (94 pts.)


• 2004 Switchback Ridge Merlot Peterson Family Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Nose of melted chocolate and cinnamon spice. Although the palate was slightly marred by the heavy presence of oak, I did enjoy the black cherry, cinnamon, and Asian spice flavors. (91 pts.)


• 2002 Pride Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Nose of red fruits, cassis, and just the earliest stages of secondary characteristics. On the palate, red fruit, plum, and roasted meat flavors. (90 pts.)


• 2004 Pride Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Perhaps my least favorite of this flight. Spicy nose. On the palate, cassis, sweet mint, and herbs. 87-88 points. (87 pts.)


• 2003 Pride Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
  I was expecting a rich, extracted 2003 cabernet, and this one did not disappoint. Nose of currant, cinnamon, and molasses. Ripe blackberry fruit and espresso on the palate, with just the right amount of acidity to keep this wine just barely in balance. A wobbly but nevertheless successful tightrope performance. (92 pts.)


• 2003 Robert Foley Claret - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
  Nose reminds me of a cinnamon cherry danish. Mmm ... cherry danish. Lots of sweet red and black fruits on the palate, accented with a touch of vanilla and molasses. Another extracted 2003 that seems to work pretty well. (92 pts.)


• 2003 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
  This wine tasted the most manipulated of the flight. It also showed the most heat. Nose of overripe plums (prunes even), cinnamon and molasses. Sweet red and black fruits on the palate, with an interesting floral component. Not bad; it just tasted really overworked to me. (89 pts.)

Flight 4: Petite Sirah

Grilled New Zealand baby lamb chops, peppercorn sauce and sautéed spinach

• 2001 Pride Mountain Syrah - USA, California, Sonoma County
  It was nice to change things up a bit after the last two flights. Maybe it was my palate, but I was not really feeling this wine too much. Nice aromas of plum, dark chocolate, and earth on the nose. But the palate does not really live up to the promise of the nose for me. And the very high acidity tended to overpower the otherwise decent blackberry and plum fruit. 87-88 points. (88 pts.)


• 2003 Switchback Ridge Petite Sirah Peterson Family Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
  As a disclaimer, I should say that I'm not a huge fan of petite sirah. To my tastes, I tend to liken the varietal to football linebackers: they may have power, they may have finesse, but ultimately, they just want to knock you down. Nose of blueberries, plum, and spice. Plums, hard spice, and vanilla on the palate. (90 pts.)


• 2003 Robert Foley Petite Sirah - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
  A big bruiser of a wine, and IMO, a bit too primal and tannic to fully appreciate. Blueberry and espresso on the nose. Blackberry jam coats the mouth. Nearly over the top. (91 pts.)


• 2004 Switchback Ridge Petite Sirah Peterson Family Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Another monster, although a bit broader and expansive on the palate. Espresso and chocolate on the nose. Blueberries, chocolate, and loamy earth. 91-92 points. (92 pts.)


• 2004 Robert Foley Petite Sirah - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
  Palate was officially dead after this wine. Nothing else tasted the same afterwards. Huge nose of blueberry and espresso. Dense and chewy on the palate, with tons of blue and black fruits, as well as chocolate. A monster and very tannic at this young stage. WOTF. (92 pts.)

Dessert

An arrangement of assorted cheeses, candied walnuts, and white and dark chocolate

Cheers!

Lately I've been inordinately obsessed with Barolo. Maybe it's because I like the way it sounds. Barolo. Come on, say it with me: buh-row-low. Or maybe it's because the producers have really cool-sounding names like Bruno or Aldo or Giacomo. Or maybe, just maybe, it's because I recently tasted the 2003 Bruno Giacosa Barolo le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba and, for a very brief moment, it made me forget that women ever even existed.

Yes, it was that good. Sexy. So so sexy.

Brian Loring went from programming military software for nuclear submarines to making wine. Since 1999, he has been handcrafting small-lot single vineyard pinot noir in an industrial complex affectionately known at the Lompoc Ghetto and has become the posterchild for a new style of California pinot noir. Riper, richer, bolder in flavors, Loring's wines are the bêtes noires of Burgundy and the darlings of the New World. In many ways, his pinots are as explosive as the torpedos he programmed.


On Saturday, Brian joined a group of us to do a retrospective tasting of his wines, with Loring himself supplying nearly three cases of his own pinot, which included barrel samples of his yet-to-be-released 2006 vintage. Needless to say, it was a hedonistic evening that would make even the most flamboyant francophile blush. If Las Vegas could do pinot noir, it would probably taste something like this:

LORING RETROSPECTIVE - Orange County, CA (5/26/2007)

2001 Vintage

There seemed to be considerable variation to the bottles of this vintage.

• 2001 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  The first bottle had a nice nose of cherry and earth with mature sour cherry and black tea flavors. The second bottle had some terrific grilled meat flavors and was, according to my palate, the better bottle. First bottle: 89 points. Second bottle: 91 points. Average: 90 points. (90 pts.)


• 2001 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Slight oxidative, rust-like aromas. On the palate, delicate red fruit flavors, sour cherries in particular. (88 pts.)

2002 Vintage

This was my least favorite flight, with many of the wines showing slight to extreme degrees of oxidation.

• 2002 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  This note is for the second bottle that was opened as the first one seemed flawed. Burnt cherry on the nose. On the palate, tart red fruit flavors (my notes say unripe strawberries) and a high degree of acidity, which interestingly, started to grow on me after a while. LB dumped it after the first sip, but I stayed with it, and as a result, came to like it more and more. (87 pts.)


• 2002 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
  This wine seemed to have some oxidated or cooked characteristic on the nose. Nonetheless, I did make out some burnt cherry and earth flavors. A hard one to judge. (84 pts.)


• 2002 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  This bottle was clearly oxidized. At this point, I was ready to move on the 2003s. NR (flawed)

2003 Vintage

This flight showed the most significant degree of toast/pastry dough characteristics to a greater or lesser degrees of enjoyability.

• 2003 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  The first bottle I tried was kind of bretty. The second bottle was clean, with cherry, clove, and smoke aromas. On the palate, nice dark cherry and orange rind flavors, silky texture, and refreshing acidity. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)


• 2003 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Muted cherry and spice aromas. On the palate, delicate cherry and mineral flavors, a slightly watery mouthfeel and texture, and a zing of acidity on the finish. (87 pts.)


• 2003 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
  Molasses and pastry dough on the nose. Strawberries and herbs on the palate. Balanced. 88-89 points. (88 pts.)


• 2003 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  Dark cherry, pastry dough, and spice on the nose. Rich and intense on the palate, with cherry, raspberry, and smoke on the palate. A very nice pinot! (91 pts.)


• 2003 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Floral aromas with sweet cherry pie on the nose. On the palate, my notes say dark cherry and fruitcake. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)


• 2003 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Naylor Dry Hole Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone
  Muted red fruits and toast on the nose. Light strawberry and cherry fruit flavors. (88 pts.)


• 2003 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir "The Llama" - USA, California
  My notes say toasted cherry Pop-Tart on the nose. Dark cherry fruit and wet loamy earth on the palate. (90 pts.)

2004 Vintage

This was my favorite flight, with nearly all the wines drinking really well at this stage.

• 2004 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  Cherry and smoke on the nose. Bright cherry fruit on the palate, with a nice touch of orange rind on the finish. Balanced and drinking really well. (90 pts.)


• 2004 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  Terrific nose of cherry and mixed citrus fruits. On the palate, dark cherry flavors, accented with some toast and earth. Rich yet balanced. (91 pts.)


• 2004 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Brosseau Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone
  The nose reminds me of a toasted cherry Pop-Tart. On the palate, dark cherry, Welch's grape juice, and spice. (91 pts.)


• 2004 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  This wine was very nice. Raspberry, dark cherry, and maple syrup on the nose, with the addition of ripe Bing cherries and smoke on the palate. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)


• 2004 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Durell Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  I was initially a bit hesitant with this one because I found the 2005 Durrell too earthy for my tastes and thought it was just a characteristic of the vineyard. But lo and behold, this wine is a beauty! Expressive and lively, with a well-delineated palate of cherry, raspberry, and cranberry fruit, and additional shadings of mineral and wet rocks on the finish. A wonderful pinot! 92-93 points. (92 pts.)


• 2004 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir "Llama Farm" - USA, California
  Initially some funkiness on the nose, but then evolves with heavy swirling into sour cherries and earth. On the palate, dark cherry, mocha, loamy earth, and mineral. LB liked this one quite a bit. (91 pts.)

2005 Vintage

I would hold off on this vintage. Some of the wines are drinking well, but others seem to need more time to fully come together.

• 2005 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  This wine is drinking really well now. Rich on the palate, with nice cranberry and Bing cherry fruit. (91 pts.)


• 2005 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
  Perhaps it's just me, but I always seem to get orange rind on Loring's Garys'. A bit thinner than previous vintages, but still has some nice red cherry and citrus notes. (89 pts.)


• 2005 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills
  A little funky on the nose, with carmelized cherry on the palate. Wish I could have revisited this wine later in the evening, as I quite liked the 2003. (86 pts.)


• 2005 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Russell Family Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
  Tons of candied fruit flavors jumping out the the glass. I would hold on to this wine for a while to allow the hyperactive fruit to settle down a bit. Could be a stunner in about a year. (90 pts.)


• 2005 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
  A but funky on the nose, which evolves with heavy swirling into cherry and grapefruit aromas. A bit thin and herbal on the palate, but nice cherry flavors and good acidity. (87 pts.)


• 2005 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Bruno D'Alfonso Blend - USA, California
  Delicious stuff! Candied red berries and vanilla. (90 pts.)

2006 Vintage -- Barrel Samples

2006 Shea - Floral nose with blueberry and cherry accents. High acidity with strong vanilla notes. 90-91 points.
2006 Garys' - Floral nose with cranberry and citrus rind on the palate. Nice acidity. 91-92 points.
2006 Aubaine - Great aromatics! Crushes wild berries and cherries. 91-92 points.
2006 Graham - Dark fruits and smoke on the nose with sweet cherry jam on the palate. 90 points.
2006 Clos Pepe - Welch's grape juice and minerals. Still very tannic. 90 points.
2006 Russell - Deep and rich with dark cherry and mocha on the palate. 91-92 points.

SHAFER HILLSIDE SELECT VERTICAL DINNER (1989-2002) - California Club, Los Angeles, CA (4/28/2007)

Champagne Reception

Various hors d'oeuvres, including caviar and crème fraiche on new potatoes

• N.V. Pol Roger Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne
  A nice way to start the evening. Pear and toasted almond notes. Steeliness on the finish. (88 pts.)

First Course

Sautéed scallops on wilted spinach topped with Champagne beurre blanc sauce and caviar

• 2002 Kongsgaard Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley
  This may have been an off bottle, but one could not tell from the nose. Nutty aromas layered with citrus oil. On the palate, however, the wine shows pretty thin and flat. Vestiges of grapefruit and pineapple remain, but only on the attack. No finish whatsoever. Hard to say, but my feeling is that this wine may be heat damaged or past its prime. No rating, but if the latter, then maybe 84 points. NR (flawed)


• 2003 Kongsgaard Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley
  A really beautiful and elegant wine, and a significant improvement over the 2002. Marshmallow cream and candied orange peel on the nose. On the palate, delicate notes of peaches, orange marmalade, and honey. A real standout this wine is, and well worth its cult status. (92 pts.)


• 2004 Kongsgaard Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley
  I think what distinguishes a Kongsgaard from other Napa Valley chardonnays is its elegance and finesse. Another very good wine, although quite different from the 2003. Notes of poached pear, popcorn (not the burnt variety), and tropical fruits. Good acidity. Slight toastiness on the finish. (90 pts.)


• 2004 Kongsgaard Chardonnay The Judge - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Another very good chardonnay, but to be honest, I really don't get it. Very similar to the regular bottling -- same notes of poached pears and tropical fruits. The main difference, however, was the texture, which was glycerol-like in its viscosity. Not sure the unctuousness warrants the price of this wine, but it was very nice to drink. (91 pts.)

Second Course

Pan roasted northern halibut, braised salsifis and Enoki mushrooms with black truffle polenta

• 1989 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
  This wine is past its prime IMO, as the secondary characteristics have completely eclipsed whatever sense of fruit there may have been. Nose of leather, cedar, and jalapeño pepper. Tar, wood, and acid on the palate. (82 pts.)


• 1991 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
  My favorite of the flight, as people noticed by pointing out my empty glass. It was the only one of the flight that I finished. Silky and refined, with plush notes of currant, tobacco, and orange peel. Drinking extremely well now, with no need to hold any longer. (91 pts.)


• 1992 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
  This seemed more mature than the 1991, which we had out of a magnum. Don't have a lot of notes on this one, but I do remember it being elegant and balanced. (89 pts.)

Third Course

Boneless rack of lamb "St. Hubert"

• 1996 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
  I have come to the conclusion that I prefer my cabs on the young side, and this flight is where the Hillside Select starts to turn a corner for me. It is this flight where I start to get it. Mature flavors of cassis and cedar dovetail nicely with some youthful black cherry and dark chocolate. Drinking perfectly right now. (92 pts.)


• 1997 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
  This wine proudly shows the strength of the vintage in the hands of a talented winemaker. Beautiful layers of cassis and red current (perfect match with the red currents in the lamb sauce BTW). Silky texture. Finishes with a hint of cedar, black tea, and mocha. A wonderful wine! (94 pts.)


• 1999 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
  I thought this was very similar to the 1997, with its cassis and red currant flavors. A bit more acidity than the 1997, however, and not quite as polished. Still, an excellent wine. (93 pts.)

Fourth Course

Assortment of French cheeses

• 2001 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
  I thought this wine had a bit more depth than the 2002. Still very young, and quite structured, this massive wine was packed with cassis, blackberry, tobacco, and dark chocolate. A huge bruiser of a wine, but I loved it, absolutely loved it! This was for me the WOTN and the reason the Shafer HSS ranks among the best wines of the world. (96 pts.)


• 2002 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
  This was drinking better than the 2001, but I don't think it will go the distance that the 2001 will. Surprisingly mature for its youth, with dazzling cassis, blackberry, and cedar notes. Creamy dark chocolate finish sails on forever. A decadent wine for a decadent evening. (95 pts.)


• 2001 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Anniversary SunSpot Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
  A delicious wine that seemed a bit more ripe and fleshy than 2001 Hillside Select. Plush like the 2002 HSS. (95 pts.)

Dessert Course

Petit Fours and Mignardises

• 1988 Château Rabaud-Promis - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
  They have these mango and pineapple empanadas at Starbucks, and this is wine kind of reminds me of that. Rich and creamy, with lingering flavors of dried apricots and honey. (93 pts.)


• 2001 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
  Rich and decadant, with just the right amount of acidity to balance out the sweetness. Dried pineapple, fresh apricots, and toffee flavors. Nice spice on the finish. To quote Andrea Immer, WOW! (95 pts.)

THE WINES OF MARK AUBERT - Pinot Provence, Costa Mesa, CA (2/10/2007)

First Course

Sashimi of bigeye tuna, Dungeness crab, blood oranges, shiso sprouts

• 2001 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  A well-aged and honeyed Chardonnay with rich tropical fruit notes. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)


• 2002 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Very similar to the 2001. Same flavor profile, but with a much smoother and refined finish. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)


• 2003 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  A departure from the 2001 and 2002. Seems to have picked up some herbal characteristics, along with unripe fruit flavors. Nose is kind of swampy. (88 pts.)


• 2002 Aubert Chardonnay Quarry Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County
  Dances on the palate with lemon-lime flavors and nice mineral and slate notes. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)


• 2003 Aubert Chardonnay Quarry Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County
  Similar to the 2002. Same flavor profile, but with a much smoother and refined texture. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)


• 2003 Aubert Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Smooth texture. Nice orange cream and nectarine fruit. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)

Second Course

Lobster-poached beurre fondue, marscapone risotto, Oregon white truffles, Terre Bormane olive oil

• 2004 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Rich caramel and tropical notes. Very well made. (93 pts.)


• 2004 Aubert Chardonnay Lauren Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  A clean and well-delineated wine. Delicious pear and melon flavors. (94 pts.)


• 2004 Aubert Chardonnay Quarry Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County
  Terrific balance between fruit and minerality. Both citrus and slate. (92 pts.)


• 2004 Aubert Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Incredibly smooth wine. Peach and pear fruit. I could drink this all night. (94 pts.)

Third Course

Grilled duck breast, seared La Belle Farms foie gras, wild mushrooms, Bing cherry foam

• 2004 Aubert Pinot Noir Reuling Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Firm acidity buttresses nice flavors of dried cranberries and cherry. Much more structured than I would have expected. Delicious, but needs some time. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)


• 2004 Aubert Pinot Noir UV Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  Incredible! Has to be tasted to be believed. Layers upon layers of flavors and textures. Mocha, sour cherry, earth, and more. A truly three-dimensional wine, With a doubt, a classic. (95 pts.)

Main Course

Braised Waygu short rib, seared Waygu flat iron, cipollini onions, sauce marchands de vin

• 1996 Peter Michael Les Pavots - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
  Did not seem as open as it could have been. Some loam and cassis peeking through, however. (89 pts.)


• 1997 Peter Michael Les Pavots - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
  Lots of depth and power to his wine. Very macho, yet nicely packaged, like an NFL linebacker in a handmade suit. Kind of intimidating. (92 pts.)


• 2000 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Some green notes. Latent fruit. A bit austere. (90 pts.)


• 2000 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Herb Lamb - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Dark fruits, mocha, cedar. Terrific texture. (93 pts.)


• 2003 Colgin Syrah IX Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Holy cow! What a treat! Rich mocha, cassis, raspberry notes. An opulent wine with velvety texture and firm tannins. (95 pts.)

Dessert

Apricot macaroon, vanilla Devonshire gelato, apricot confiture

• 2002 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
  Amazingly rich yet light at the same time. Dried apricots and honey. A classic. (95 pts.)


• 2001 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
  I think this wine stole the show. Even days later, I can't stop thinking about it. Hypnotic and seductive. This is the Salomé of wines. (98 pts.)

In the June 15, 2006 issue of the Wine Spectator, wine critic Jim Laube all but dismisses 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon. While he admits that there are some excellent wines to be had in 2003, he calls it a lackluster year, one to be viewed with a significant degree of caution. With that in mind, but also receiving Laube’s words with my own brand of caution, I decided to take a look at some affordable Cabs that will still bring pleasure without breaking the bank. If 2003 is not the year to invest (sic?) in Cabs, then what good Cabs are to be had in the 2002-2004 interim?

I decided to compare two wines from 2003: Larkmead and Meyer. Both wines are in the same affordable-but-not-cheap price point ($35-$40), and both have received favorable reviews. Renown wine critic Robert Parker gave the Larkmead 93/100 points, while the Meyer Cab received 92/100 points from Laube himself. In these respects, the two are well suited for comparison.

The difference between the two, however, is significant. Larkmead has the more storied reputation. Their vineyards date back to the 1800s, and has been own by the Solari family for almost 60 years, although it wasn't really until 1999 that their wines seemed to burst on the wine scene. The Meyer label is something of a love story. In 2001, Stanley Cheng, a wealthy businessman from Hong Kong, took his wife, Helen, to French Laundry for her birthday. For their dinner, the sommelier recommended a $350 bottle of 1998 Merus Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine literally blew them away! As result, the Chengs started their own winery in Napa; called it Hestan (Helen + Stanley); hired Mark Herold, the proprietor of Merus (and graduate of UC Irvine); and gave him a virtual carte blanche to make wine. For their inaugural release in 2002, Parker gave their wine 95 points! The Meyer label, also made by Herold, is their second, more affordable label. The 2003 Cabernet is the latter's first wine.

In comparing these two wines, I decided to try something different. I tasted both wines in two different sets of glasses (four glasses total). The first set was my trusty Spiegelau Vino Grande, and the second was a set of Eisch “breathable” glasses that I received as a gift. I used the Spiegelau for my first impressions of each wine, then I retasted the wines in the Eisch glasses to see if there were any differences.

Complicated, I know. But then again, so am I. OK, here goes:

2003 Larkmead Cabernet Sauvignon

Opaque in color -- a deep, dark plum. Intense nose of black cherry, grilled meats, and smoke. After about fifteen minutes of swirling, I delected an additional layer of fig, sweet oak, and buttered (carmel?) popcorn. On the palate, I tasted rich flavors of cassis, raspberry, vanilla, with just a hint of soy. The finish lasted upwards of 30 seconds or more. A hard wine to put down; I kept taking sips.

In the Eisch glass, and after over an hour of aeration, the Larkmead displayed additional aromas of teriyaki sauce on the nose. It became much richer on the palate, almost syrupy, but also picked up some more earthy flavors – especially tobacco -- on the finish. In many ways, it tasted more grapey in the Eisch, but with much more of a contrast between the mid-palate and the finish. This is a thinking person’s wine.

2003 Meyer Cabernet Sauvignon

Equally opaque in color -- dark purple with a garnet undertone. A seductive nose of black cherry, vanilla, bacon, sweet oak, and toasted marshmallows. On the palate, a burst of juicy black fruits, prune, molasses, with hints of black olive and spice on the finish. Shorter finish than the Larkmead, but in many ways just as hard to resist.

In the Eisch glass, and (again) after over an hour of aeration, the vanilla and marshmallow in the Meyer became more prominent, but also more mellow. As far as taste, it was virtually unchanged –- more consistent and with less (what I see as) negative evolution -- in the different glass. In many ways, I found the Meyer more enjoyable (more fun) as a result. This is a hedonist’s wine.

The Larkmead is in many ways a more mysterious, perhaps more intellectual wine, but the Meyer is the more seductive of the two. Both draw you in, but the latter just gives it up more freely than the former.

Both are well recommended. Not a surprise, being the Gemini that I am.

I'm just not sure I'm into it anymore. It was fun for a while, but now I think my interest is beginning to wane.

Dear Phlin, sometimes the holidays can be such a letdown.